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bellcrank springs and linkage

Posted By geo56 7 Years Ago
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geo56
Posted 7 Years Ago
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I just installed a Holly 4 barrel on my 56 victoria with 292 and Fordomatic. I was running a 2 barrel manifold and a Ford 2100 2 barrel carb. The carb linkage and accelerator seemed to work just fine with this set up. The only springs I used were the two that are connected to the bellcrank. Now with the Holly 4 barrel and 4 barrel manifold, I feel like the bellcrank springs are too stiff for this new carb because when I depress the accelerator it feels mushy and delayed. I tried adding a forward spring and anchored it to the front of the intake manifold and the other end to the throttle, thus counteracting some of the tension of the bellcrank spring and it helped a lot but there is still some delay at the gas pedal. Do I need to just keep trying different spring sizes and length until I get the right feel at the accelerator pedal ? By the way, I called Holly and read them the list numbers on the carb and they told me it was a service replacement carb for a 289 mustang and was about 450 cfm . I put a new kit in it and observed that the jets were #55. Hope this is a good carb for a stock 292. It has manual choke. Any advice on linkage and springage would be appreciated.
George
oldcarmark
Posted 7 Years Ago
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What Linkage setup is on it? The proper 4 Barrel Bellcrank or the One used with the 2 Barrel? If its the proper 4 Barrel Bellcrank there is a Procedure to properly set it up so it works correctly.  You might have to change the Jets to 57 or 58. Try it as is and see how it runs. What Distributor are You using?. You cant use the Loadomatic.

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geo56
Posted 7 Years Ago
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The bellcrank is the original one that was used with the teapot carb. I have kept and adjusted that original linkage but have changed the manifold to a 57 and up 4 barrel manifold. I also have the later 57 and up distributer. The linkage and bellcrank worked fine with the 2 barrel manifold and carb . I might add that I followed procedure using a 1/4 drill bit to allign the bellcrank linkage and throttle control rod and accelerator pedal. I still needed to add the extra spring . I am also aware that the original bellcrank must have the proper springs for the kickdown to work properly.
oldcarmark
Posted 7 Years Ago
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I just changed my Friends 56 from Teapot to Holley 390. He was experiencing the same thing with the "delayed" Pedal Response.When I looked at mine the "Accelerator connecting Link" was much longer as it is adjustable. Lengthening it took up the slack in the Linkage. I had changed the "return" Spring on mine to a lighter Spring as I felt it was too strong and hard on the Foot when driving. If You look at the Pictures U can see I used a universal Spring with a hooked piece of Coat Hanger to make it less stiff but still works as it should. I still used the 1/4 Drill Bit to setup the adjustment as shown in the Fordomatic Manual. Just lengthened the adjustable Link and now it works with no Delay. Also added Washers under the the Bracket where it bolts to Manifold to level it. The Bracket is different on 57's to make up for the difference in mount.. http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/d22a9be0-bab1-418b-b7af-38bd.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/03531639-b2a8-4537-be7f-bf1e.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/275cf42e-b211-44c8-9d4e-1e3f.jpg 

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geo56
Posted 7 Years Ago
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Thanks for the reply and pics. As I wanted to do a test drive before dark last night, I drove my victoria sensing that the accelerator pedal needed adjusting back which I will try today. I'm glad you noticed that the bellcrank bracket sets a little lower on the 57 manifold. I thought about making up the difference with washers and will try that today. I will use the instructions from the fordomatic manual and hopefully can do away with using the extra forward spring.I have read in other links that the bellcrank springs must be the exact tension for the kickdown to work properly. 
oldcarmark
Posted 7 Years Ago
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The washers go under the Bracket nearest to the Valve Cover. I used 5 Washers I think just to level it when the Bolt is tightened down. The only Spring I changed was the Return Spring.

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oldcarmark
Posted 7 Years Ago
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geo56
Posted 7 Years Ago
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I came to the conclusion that the bellcrank spring was calibrated to work with the teapot carburator and was too stiff for the later holly. I think I achieved the same result that Oldcarmark got by putting a softer spring on the bellcrank . I used a setup that I removed from an early 60's truck 292 that used a spring that pulled forward the bottom ear of the throttle while the accelerator is depressed. The L shaped bracket is anchored by one of the long 9/16 intake manifold bolts at the front of the manifold. I found that by breaking loose the manifold bolt slightly and turning the bracket either clock or counterclockwise I could either increase or decrease spring tension without having to try various sizes of springs. After a little trial and error, I achieved the counteractive tension on the bellcrank that left a good feel at the accelerator pedal and also allowed the kickdown to not travel through the slot on the bellcrank prematurely, thus giving a delayed feel on the accelerator. All is now good so far. By the way, the bracket and spring combo that I used, I have seen on more than one early 60's 292 truck motor with the Ford 2 barrel carb.


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