What's the best way to block off the exhaust crossover? I've thought about welding up the ports on my intake (aluminum ) or making a small plate and silicone them to the gasket. Any suggestions?

Durham Missouri

Small tin plate works well. Some of the intake gaskets have a plate with a small hole to restrict the crossover.


Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I used a couple of pieces of Tin or Aluminum  trimmed to cover the Ports and put the Gasket on top. Thin enough that they won't affect Gasket Seal. Been in there for 5-6 Years. Dont forget to remove the Heat Riser Valve and replace it with a Blank Plate to make up for missing Valve. Available from most of the usual Ford Suppliers. 

  

I like the intake manifold gaskets with the restricted heat tube crossover passageways. I have been running them for a couple of years now with no problems.  I bought mine from Tee Bird.  They say the gaskets let enough heat through to provide enough carb heat but not enough to burn the paint off the manifold.  My engine seems to take a little longer to get the carb up to heat but I'll trade that for having paint on the manifold.

Larry

Thanks. About how thick of tin did you guys use? I was thinking maybe .005-.007 thick. I already have the restrictor gaskets and it still heats up the carb too much. I'm running a Blue Thunder intake so there is no heat riser valve to deal with. I also got a 1" phenolic spacer to help so hopefully between the two I should be good.

Durham Missouri

Just use the gaskets that have the restricted hole, You might be best to have some sort of heating unless you are an a warm climate most of the time .



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

I already have the restrictor gaskets in place now. The problem I'm having is the carb is heating up after I shut the car off. If it sits less than 30 minutes it doesn't want to start well and after it starts it doesn't idle well until it gets driven a short distance.

Durham Missouri

That might have more to do with that shit fuel you guys have.?  Sounds more like you need the heat if its not idling well until it heats up.
 What state are you in ?



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

That's a pretty common problem in my experience. Both my cars do that parked with the hood down. Then I noticed at a show where the hood was open, it didn't happen. I haven't found a cure, I'm inclined to blame it on the ethanol and Reid (?) vapor pressure of modern fuel designed for use in fairly high pressure EFI systems. I know it wasn't a problem way back when. Vapor lock when driving seems more common too in our old cars.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

I use the restricted gaskets here in Atlanta.  That's up to around 100 degrees in the summer, so for most people they should do the job.

Do you have a spacer?  If not, try a spacer.  Phenolic spacers are available as thin as 1/4".  Edelbrock make a gasket that is 3/8" thick.

Also make sure it is not some tuning or ignition issue.


Lawrenceville, GA