Recently got a temp' gun, and was checking stuff. I have a 292 in an F600, after a short run, at idle, I got these readings.
Manifold under carb..150 ,,I made steel inserts at the head/manifold with 3/8 holes
stock Ford 1/2" heat dam spacer..139
1 1/2" alum spacer..115
float bowl..105,,,,,,flat top 1.01 venturi
remote oil filter beside fuel pump..173
valve covers..145
.top of rad'..184,,,,temp. gauge reading inside..190
 Ram ex manifolds..250
    Comments ?

Temp reading inside seems a bit high for a "short run."  But, what was the ambient temperature outside & how long did the truck idle?  Just for clarification..


Paul

Ambient about 80, ran about 20 miles, 190 is normal for this motor,,,3 minutes idling time while checking.

Mine is a T-bird with an original radiator (in good repair).. On a "hot idle (burndown) test" in the driveway - after getting the engine up to temp by driving, and then letting it settle down in park for several minutes - I check the temp at the thermostat housing. I also check a piece of metal resting in the shade next to the garage - and some other nearby objects that would be at outdoor ambient temperature. When the outdoor temperature exceeds 80º (the thermostat rating is 180º), my outfit will show a temp of 105º OVER ambient at the thermostat housing. If I sit there and hold the car with the brake - in drive - it will rise a bit as water flow is reduced. I have a small W.P. pulley and a seven blade fan mounted on an "extreme duty" Hayden clutch - and a nearly blocked bypass (1/8 orifice). This is a desert vehicle, so to facilitate cold starts with this arrangement - there are simply (3) 3/16 holes drilled in the thermostat.

When the temperature in Tucson is 105º (like today) - it will show 210º at the outlet. The boiling protection of the radiator pressure cap - plus the chemical make-up of the anti-freeze is all that prevents a boil-over situation. I have seen 120º on my wife's Explorer - when driving on the freeway in Phoenix. I really wouldn't want to test the 'bird against that condition - but I believe it might be able to take it - while moving.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

1/8 plus3x3/16 =11/16 this is very close to original by pass,tho you have destroyed the flow in the engine itself till the stat opens,plus cool down in park is not quite as good as neutral,according to my info in park 1 clutch is partengaged n all clutches dis engaged on a ford auto.we have had a extreme temps this summer for bc my temp on 292 160 atdr side gauge 182 at stat rad temp top tank200,bottom 175,which says plenty of rad still avail for cooling. just part of my side of the discussion re leave the bypass as henry made it

I soon found that a test in "park' was not nearly as severe as a test in "drive". The spacer on the T-birds destroys pump efficiency, and especially at minimal rpm. When the rpms drop the water barely flows - even at full t-stat opening. My car even had an original 3 blade fan, 2/3 size radiator ............ cooling system engineering wasn't a Ford strong point in 1956.

Ford's other little "warm-up" scheme is the retarded (stock) initial spark advance - and with ported vacuum from the original carb, no advance. The engine just sits there and cooks.

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire