the steering box in my 55 customline is sloppy. steering wheel has probably has 3 or 4 inches of play. can you tighten these up like a gm box?

If the merc is like a 'bird, short answer is yes. But, if it's the "2 sector" box, and not the "3 sector" like '57, they aren't as precise. Someone else will chime in with the exact adjustment procedure, but I think it's in the manual. All I recall is you have to be dead ahead and the box centered when you adjust it. Been years since I did a GM box, but IIRC, it's pretty similar.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Check your idler arm also for play

Your '55 has a 2 tooth sector. Adjusting it can be done by jacking the front wheels off the floor and with the wheels and steering wheel straight ahead turn the adjusting screw on the top of the box in by tiny increments until the slop is reduced. The box is designed so that the steering feels tighter going straight ahead and becomes easier when turning. For best results use the following procedure.

The service manual procedure is to eliminate any slop in the linkage before messing with the box. Proper box adjustment is a pretty fiddly process. The 1st step is to eliminate any misalignment of the steering column by loosening the 3 bolts that hold the box to the frame to relieve any vertical strain, then loosen the clamp that holds the column to the dashboard, eliminating any horizontal strain. Tighten the box mounting bolts, then tighten the column clamp bolts. Next you should check worm bearing preload. Disconnect the pitman arm from the drag link and turn the wheel 2 complete turns from the straight ahead position, then hook a spring scale (a fish scale) to the steering wheel where a spoke meets the wheel. Pull the wheel through at least 1 turn by pulling on the scale, noting the amount of pull needed to keep the wheel moving. This is the worm bearing preload and should read between 1/8 and 3/8 lbs. If the reading is too high (unlikely after 60+ years) a shim or shims must be added to the shim pack under the top cover of the box. If it's too loose a shim or shims must be removed. Remove or add 1 shim at a time, checking the preload each time as described previously.

Next check steering gear worm and sector mesh. This is controlled by the screw in the top cover of the box and controls sector shaft end play. With the pitman arm still disconnected from the drag link attach a spring scale to the steering wheel as described previously and pull the wheel though the straight ahead position, noting the scale reading. It should be at least 1/2 lb. above the worm bearing preload, but the total reading (worm bearing preload + worm and sector mesh) should not exceed 1 3/8 lbs. If the total reading is within these limits no further adjustment is needed. If the reading does not exceed the worm bearing preload by at least 1/2 lb. the worm and sector preload is too low and needs adjustment. To adjust it put the wheel in the straight ahead position and remove the adjusting screw cover and star washer. Turn the screw in while moving the pitman arm back and forth until all backlash is eliminated, but no tighter than that. Reinstall the star washer with the tang on the washer engaged in the slot in the screw and one of the serrations in the washer positioned over the boss on the box cover. Recheck the preload. This is the sum of the worm bearing preload and worm and sector preload. If the reading is too high turn the adjusting screw out; if too low turn it in until the proper reading is achieved. Be very careful adjusting the worm and sector preload. If it's too tight it will accelerate wear and the box must then be rebuilt. If the box leaks lubricant  a lot of guys, myself included, use straight STP in it; guaranteed not to leak and provides the proper lubrication for the worm and sector. I can't overemphasize eliminating slop in the linkage before doing anything to the box. The ball stud where the pitman arm connects to the drag link is often overlooked. The adjustment there is by the large threaded plug in the end of the drag link. Drag link rebuild kits are available from the usual suspects. Good luck!

Also, check for pitman arm to bushing slop.  With wheels on the ground, have someone work the steering wheel back and forth while you look at the pitman arm shaft.  If it's moving back and forth (sideways), that probably would account for most of the total slop.

its had it, get it rebuilt.



  AussieBill            YYYY    Forever Y Block     YYYY

 Down Under, Australia

I tend to agree with Bill. It may be time for a rebuild. Mine was just as loose as yours before I sent it off for rebuild. Now it drives as good or better than my modern daily driver. And that's with 670-15 bias ply tires.

Durham Missouri

thanks for the help guys

If you decide to have it rebuilt these guys get good reviews:

http://www.larescorp.com/

Internal parts are available from various suppliers but if it were me I'd have it done professionally. They'll have the tools and equipment to set it up properly. Steering is kinda important...;>

Redheads is a good option also. I had them do my box and it came out great.

Durham Missouri