Double check that you have a true 12 volts to the distributor.
 
The ‘lighter’ advance springs in the distributor will make the engine more responsive or snappier right off of idle.  I use the light silver and blue springs as a starting point.  The springs that are initially installed in the distributor are the stiffest combination possible and this is done by MSD as a hedge against someone running an engine that’s borderline in regards to its ignition timing requirements.  Most Y’s at 9.5:1 or less on the static compression ratio are reasonably safe with the lighter springs.
 
Do you have the vacuum advance hooked up and if so, what are you using for a vacuum source?  When setting the initial timing, are you doing so with the vacuum advance unhooked from the distributor?

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

The damper is the rubber ring vulcanized to your crank pulley, sandwiched between the hub and the outer part of the pulley. With age they tend to loosen and allow the outer ring of the pulley to slip. Since the outer ring is where the timing marks are they may no longer be very useful for setting timing. They can be rebuilt if this is the problem with your car.

you will have to excuse my igornance, I understand advancing 10 degrees but what is the damper?

For a quick check of the Damper issue, try advancing the distributor ten degrees or so. See if the idle picks up substantially and the performance improves.  If so, chances are the damper has slipped and needs repaired.


Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 

Ted, I couldn't find my receipts or box the distributor came in  so I had to run it down on line, it's A MSD #8383 and A Holly #08007 390 cfm carburetor .
I do remember additional magnets coming with it but o be honest if I need them I will have to buy hem.
I'm so frustrated with this car but hoping to get it going soon.

mine is 12 volt, trying to find the receipt where I bought mine so I can answer all of Ted's questions.

Is your car still 6 volt? The MSD 8383 needs a full 12 volts to operate correctly. I recently just picked one up extremely cheap that had been on a 6 volt car. They burned up the module in it. About $120 to get fixed. Ted, how big of a difference does the weaker springs make? I still have the factory springs in mine.

Durham Missouri

Counterfeit MSD parts are apparently still an issue as many of the MSD products are being retooled for a different look.  Many of the counterfeits were so close in appearance to the real thing that even MSD was having trouble discerning that these were not theirs until actually taken apart.  This has prompted MSD to go to a one year warranty to eliminate having to work on those older counterfeits.  The key here is to buy MSD products from reputable dealers.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Ted: I saw your post in YBM re problems with some MSD distributors. In that regard, there was an article some time back in a car magazine (can't recall which one at the moment) regarding "fake" MSDs being brought into the U.S.A. Could this still be an issue?


Paul

Did you mean MSD distributor?  If so, was it the #8383 or #83831?  Have you installed the weaker advance springs in the distributor or does it still have the springs that it was originally equipped with?
 
What carburetor are you running?  A Holley carburetor list number would help here.  Where did you hook up the vacuum hose on the carburetor for the vacuum advance?  Ported or direct vacuum for the distributor?  Are you setting the initial ignition timing with the vacuum to the distributor unhooked?  And what ignition timings do you currently have for both the initial and total timing.  Have you checked that the damper timing marks are still dead on and haven't slipped?

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)