... Breather on the bottom of the block? Pls explain where it is placed.

Thx
Andreas

59 F-250, 292 cu Y-Block, gas & lpg fired engine

My take on this is remove the line from the breather to the air filter, its possible you are sucking oil up from the valley. You have a PCV by the looks of it so the draft tube on the block will be blocked off.



"Came too close to dying to stop living now!"

Ok, that looks like a proper "closed" PCV system to me. Closed oil fill cap, rubber hose to air cleaner inside the element. PCV valve in valley pan and hose to fitting under carb.

What meteor is asking is if you blocked off the road draft tube when the PCV system went on. Some draft tubes were off the back of the valley pan, but most car applications were down by the fuel pump. I don't think late motors were even machined for them. But the canister needs to be removed and a block off plate fabricated. Otherwise, the closed system has a big leak and doesn't provide the circulation thru the motor it was designed for.

This is what talkwrench posted while I was posting this. That fill cap and hose to the air cleaner should work fine, it's the same set up I used on both my yblocks.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

That oil has water in it, it has an internal leak, it may stay the same or get worse, it may just take a re torque of the heads however something must be done.

Cliff 

Cliff, you're right, the oil has water in it. But having spend my life in the Pacific Northwest I can tell you that water gets in thru the atmosphere and won't clear unless the engine stays at temperature and the road draft of PCV system works well enough to clear it.

In the winter of 1969, over Christmas, it was just over 32 degrees and constant light rain. Driving short trips to see my friends instead of the 20 mile trip to school, I pulled the valve covers to set the valves and found 1/2 inch of foam. Freaked out. Dad came home and said " yeah, they do that all the time. Go get it warm". I went 25 miles up the freeway and 25 miles back. Pulled the valve covers and they were clean.

1: the old man was right, as usual.

2. It's the reason I'm a big believer in closed PCV system, and not doing just short trips.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

I use to have a similar problem on my 223 I6, switching from the factory 160 thermostat to a 180 helped a lot. I also use a 180 in my Y block.

Water is also a byproduct of combustion and a certain amount bypasses the rings. I agree that you should ensure you are getting the engine warm enough to vaporize the water (and other nasty stuff) in the crankcase. Use a 180 or 190°F thermostat and don't run the engine for short amounts of time. Not getting an engine up to temperature is also hard on your exhaust system.

Also, as stated, ensure your PCV system is working as it should.

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

the picture of the system points to the cap on the oil filler is most likely a issue,the hose to the air cleaner is to try and eliminate excessive blow by or error,as the cap on oil filler must be free to alow air into the engine and this will alow the pct to function correctly. I to live in a wet damp aria  surrey bc and have no such issues. do a lot of short runs,. i left the old road draft on the block as well as a pcv system and a proper cover on oil filler.  180 stat. never smell fumes ,no condensation  in filler. engine is not fresh  but burnes no oil. this site has a lot of solutions,most won't work,some will.

As an automotive instructor for a couple of years at the Junior College level, it was taught that an engine needs to get up to operating temperature for a certain number of minutes or driven at least a minimum of miles so that the water vapors inside the engine would be eliminated.  We always taught that an engine needs at least 20 minutes of continuous running, or seven miles driven at normal city street speeds or above.  Backing a vehicle out of the garage to get access to another vehicle, or wash it, and pull it back in is one of the worst things you can do for the oil and combustion chambers.  Proper thermostat temperature range, letting the oil and water temperatures get up to operating specifications, and driving the vehicle are the best remedies for oil dilution or milky build up in the valve covers.  The milky oil sludge will build up even in warm climates if you do not drive the vehicle to get it up to operating temperatures for several minutes.  Joe-JDC

JDC