Hey guys,

I'm currently building a '39 Ford Truck and have 2 Y blocks - a low-mileage '54 239 that runs and runs good (it appears it was rebuilt at some time) and a tired 292 that I plan on doing a full rebuild some time down the line. For now, I'm getting the 239 ready just to get the truck moving, as I have a few other projects in the garage that also need attention.

I managed to score the uber rare Edelbrock 354 3x2 small port manifold, which I believe was made only for the 1954 year 239. I plan on putting a newer distributor in it, but I was curious about compression in terms of cutting the heads down a bit. Stock compression is 7.2 - I'd like to up that a bit and wondered if anyone has done so, and how much material you took off the heads in doing so - or in addition, would it be worth it to cut bigger valves in these heads?

My other question - is anyone doing re-grinds on the 239 cam, as of course, absolutely nothing is available out there. I don't want to go crazy on this motor as I'm going to eventually build the 292, but I wouldn't mind doing smaller things for some gains, if possible. Any suggestions are welcome - just looking for anyone who's squeezed anything extra out of their 239. 

Everyone will have a different opinion on what to do so I'll start with mine. I would keep the 239 completely original and find someone needing it for a 54 restore/rebuild project and use the funds from that to build the 292.

I guess that would be me. Back in about 2002 Isky still had blanks and ground an E4 for me. My block is bored +.125 making it a 256. About 3 years ago we put a 312 crank in it, making it a 283. I'm running the 354 on G heads. I have a 573 to go on but haven't changed it yet. I can't tell you how much was taken off the heads, probably just a cleanup. I don't think I'd go to the trouble of bigger valves in those heads, the small ports only flow so much. You'll want to change the distributor, oil pump and drive, using the 13 tooth gear on the new distributor.

  Dennis in Lititz PA

If your aim is to get the truck running with minimum down time, I suggest leaving the 239 alone and just install it.  Even in its stock form, the 239 will make the 39 much faster than the old flathead 221.  Tearing it apart will only make the whole deal take a longer time.

When you have the dineros to rebuild the other engine, then it will be a drop in once it is finished.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

If it were me I would exactly what Paul says. But first I would get it as clean as possible and painted the original off white color with red valve covers and factory air cleaner. Put on the factory air cleaner and valvcover decals ( they available and cheap) and install it in your pick up and make it as stock/original looking as I could. You'll be surprised how well it will go over that way. No rubber fuel lines either make steel. Good luck

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Another question - the CR on these 239's is pretty low - if I wanted to cut the heads a bit, does anyone know what an acceptable amount would be to remove, and how much it would yield? I believe stock CR is 7.2:1.

239 parts are getting harder and harder to find.  This may include gaskets because some the later Yblock gaskets do not fit right.  My advise still strands - leave the 239 alone, install it in the 39 and have a good time with it.

239 engines are not worth a lot of money because there is little market for them.  Another reason not to put any dineros  into it.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Assuming the 239 actually has a CR of 7.2:1, milling the heads ~0.050” will raise the compression ratio to ~7.9:1 if using steel head gaskets.  If switching to composition head gaskets and milling the heads 0.050”, then the compression ratio will be 7.4:1 as the composition head gaskets will be approximately 0.025” thicker than the steel head gaskets.  If the engine has steel head gaskets now, then some milling of either the decks or the heads must be performed to restore the compression ratio back to stock specs when switching to composition head gaskets.
 
If the 239 is a good running engine and does not require any work, my druthers would be to leave it alone and put time and effort into a ’55 and up 272 or 292.  Parts availability is much better with the later model engines and the compression ratio comes up automatically by lieu of the larger displacement.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks Ted!

I do have a 292 complete that I'm going to build later, so for the meantime I'll probably just roll the 239 as-is.

If you want steel shim gaskets,I bought a couple sets by accident for a 272.Too small around piston.I'd let them go cheap.