Well, I discovered yesterdayt hat me master cylinder is leaking on the firewall, ruining the paint, etc.  Frankly, Im sick of bleeding brakes (usually do it every 2 years - was going to get started when I found the issue).

Does anybody have any 1st hadn experience with silicone brake fluid?  There is a lot of anectodal info on line, etc. but does anybody have the facts about using it for a summer driver?  Thoughts?

THANKS IN ADVANCE

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

I converted years ago, specifically because of the stripped paint issue. I have had no problems whatsoever with it.

       A  L  A  N   F  R  A  K  E  S   ~  Tulsa, OK    

I have converted a number of old fords , it does not remove paint from any small leaks.....the only problem i have found , if you have an in line brke lite switch,  it will only last about 4 months ,  even tried low pressure switches ,  the same problem..........Had to change to an electrical switch off the brake pedel  .........works great , with no other problems .....Sam

56 victoria

I have had problems in both my T-Birds, in addition to the brake switch issue.  Silicone fluid will not absorb moisture.  The moisture (it's in the air) looks for the lowest point in the system, the brake cylinders.  Rusts the cylinders, and they stick.  Dot 3 fluid absorbs moisture, and if we change the fluid every couple of years (I know, hardly anyone does that) the moisture is removed.  Silicone will also find a smaller escape path than glycol fluid too.  I switched back.  By the way, I have heard that Harley Davidson has a brake light switch that fits old Fords and is silicon fluid tolerant.

John in Selma, IN

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

rgrove,



Do you have a pressure-jug bleeder? It sure simplifies the process. I used an old master cylinder cap to make an adapter for the pump-up jug sold by Eastwood, etc..



John,



Just curious, but when you were running silicon, did you notice a softer pedal? I have heard it absorbs air, though the '90 Harley Sportster I had for 5 years had no obvious problem with brakes (except the single disc was inadequate for it's weight).

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Dan:

Yes, I noticed a softer pedal, kept thinking I didn't get it bled properly.  By the way, it would have been 8 or so years after I installed the fluid that I had the brake problems.  But I had serious rust pits in the master and wheel cylinders, as well as the stuck pistons.  I guess after the cylinder bores got some pits, the fluid and water was able to seep past the cups to the pistons, where they corroded and stuck.  These were cars that got driven every summer and parked every winter.

John

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

I have silicone fluid in my 302 powered 48 - been there for twenty years and never had a problem with rust or leakage.

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

I use the Dot 5 fluid (silicone based) on all my drag cars and have been using it in my ’55 Customline since 1991.  Ditto on the hydraulic pressure switches and I simply changed my ’55 over to a mechanical switch under the dash.  I’ve redone the brakes once in the ’55 since switching it over to Dot 5 fluid and was pleased to find all the wheel cylinders very clean with absolutely no indication of the sludge that builds up when using the Dot 3 fluid.  As has been said, it’s important to have a clean and purged system when switching over.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

THANKS for all of the responses!  Of the 3 restoration shops that Ive called, all of which I know/trust, 1 says silicone, 1 says dot 3, and 1 says silicone ONLY if you are willing to rebuild everything.  I think the one thing I learned that surpised me a bit is that even if you switch, you still should flush it every few years due to potential water accumulation/pooling.  I had assumed that if I changed that I would never have to bleed brakes again.... dare to dream...

I do have a power bleeder that I just picked up... maybe ill see if that makes life much easier.  I know that I could flush the lines, rebuild the cylinders, and replace the master cylinder (due to be replaced anyways) and the soft lines, but not sure how effectively I can flush the power brake booster.....

I guess Im still a bit undecided for now...This seems to be like the great ZDDP debate - a lot of opinions, some people with good experience, but hard to find objective info....

Thanks again to all who replied....this forum is absolutely fantastic - I really appreciate all of the knowledge and people who are willing to share it!

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

It is the OE style booster....I was thinking of the piston assy connected with it.... it is really different than a typical "modern" booster.  It actually mounts on the front inner fender, and has what effectively is another cylinder with a vacuum booster attached to it.  THere is a hard line that connects the master cyl to the booster, then another from the booster to the distribution block on the frame.... its really a weird setup.  Anyways, my comments were around cleaning/flushing the hydraulic part of the booster... sorry for the confusion!

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL