Thanks for the tip.  I keep a battery maintainer on it but that does not always mean much , as I have had 2 battery's over the years go bad even with the maintainers. ( not on the 8N )  I will ck the voltage with my meter next time I am there.

30 coupe: Your bendix kicking out repeatedly may be related to low voltage in your battery.. Check it out


Paul

When I did my starter., I used a long threaded rod in the upper bolt hole.  I used that for alignment and positioning, tightened the other bolts, then removed the threaded rod and put the bolt in.  Worked well and made it easy(er)



Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

One solution to the starter problem, especially the top bolt, is to put studs in the bell housing and you can slide the starter on.  Much easier to put the nut on than to get the bolts in their holes.  I've done this with my 54 and my Tbird.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Thanks for the heads up on the 8N, I have one down in Texas that will need some starter work soon. sometimes the bendix kicks out before the eng. has made even one revolution. it will do this several times before it eventually catches.  other times it works fine

A Y-Block starter's engagement is from the rear, hence the rather long mechanism. F.E. starters ( 332s, 352s etc) up to 1964 are similar.   


Paul

If you think a y block starter is a pain try putting a starter in a Ford 8N tractor. That is a lesson in patience I don't won't to do again.

Durham Missouri

Found a lot of them with the top bolt missing. My 37 year old nephew was helping me the other day. He was a VW mechanic for a while and has worked on a variety of cars. Said he never saw a starter setup like my Y Block before.

I had to trim the seal on mine to get it to fit. Other than that it was pretty straight forward.

Durham Missouri

any tips on installing 1956 Ford starter with seal and top bolt on 292 Y-block?