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Higher rpm on a 292

Posted By 47 ford w/y-block 8 Years Ago
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57RancheroJim
Posted 8 Years Ago
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CK (10/5/2016)
What should I expect from a std bottom end if balanced?
I've revved mine to 7000 often
I think your tach is way out of calibration.

PF Arcand
Posted 8 Years Ago
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CK: You didn't describe your engine, but if the cam is stock or a mild grind, there is no point in running it up to 7000 RPM. And as has been pointed out,  if the components are stock, you're courting big trouble...


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Lord Gaga
Posted 8 Years Ago
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CK (10/5/2016)
What should I expect from a std bottom end if balanced?
I've revved mine to 7000 often

A hole in the block or oil pan?


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CK
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What should I expect from a std bottom end if balanced?
I've revved mine to 7000 often
LordMrFord
Posted 8 Years Ago
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Shaggy (9/22/2016)
Slightly off topic but for maximum revs, destroking wouldnt be a bad thing. I would love to see what a 239 crank in a 312 bored block would do. At that point you are almost a GM 283 in bore/stroke/valve ratio and we know the r's those like in stock classes of racing. 









Callies compstar rods and SRP lightweight pistons can hold well over 8000 rpm's on stock stroke 292.

Lighness and balancing is everything.


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'60 Fairlane
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^^^^ Land speed racing? ^^^^ Could be fun with a set of John's heads and his new tunnel ram intake, hummmmm

-Dave
Shaggy
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Slightly off topic but for maximum revs, destroking wouldnt be a bad thing. I would love to see what a 239 crank in a 312 bored block would do. At that point you are almost a GM 283 in bore/stroke/valve ratio and we know the r's those like in stock classes of racing. 




Ted
Posted 8 Years Ago
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47 ford w/y-block (9/18/2016)
I am wondering if the 292 has any proformance parts to get a higher rpm looking to get 5000-6000 rpm if at all possible and what parts would I need to replace.

John Mummert (9/21/2016)
Well prepped C2ae rods or Aftermarket replacement rods. Good valve springs, tubular pushrods and a good balance job would be your basics to make the engine reliable.

To make power at 6000 rpm or so you would need some head porting or alum. heads , 228-234 @.050 duration. .500 lift is nice. 600-650 cfm carburetor.  Highly modded stock "B" manifold or aftermarket alum., and set of good headers and exhaust.

A well built 6000 rpm 292 should make 310-370hp  depending on part choice at a streetable compression.

We just built a .060" over 292 matching these specs with aluminum heads and manifold,  1" dual oval spacer and our 55' F100 EMC tri y headers made 365hp and 370lbs tq.


This response from John was moved from another thread that ends up being a duplicate not getting much traffic.  Ted.





Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


Ted
Posted 8 Years Ago
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'60 Fairlane (9/22/2016)
.....Now that Mr. Miller has had some time to live with this engine, has he reported back to you his impressions, or if he has made any changes to the axle gearing, etcetera?....

Karol has been quite happy with the engine combination as it is.  Being the old school top end guy that he is, he has been comfortable with the 3.22 gears and is pleased with the low end performance as it is.  He did ask me after driving the car a bit what the rpm limit should be and I told him 6000 rpms.  He confessed that he had already been 6000 rpms in 2nd and overdrive.  He really likes the automatic choke on the carb and likes the fact that it starts right up after sitting awhile (2 weeks) by simply giving it a couple of pumps of fuel before attempting to start the engine.
 
He was up for lunch this week and he mentioned he would like to put the dual quads back on the car.  With that in mind, he’ll work up the dual quad setup with a pair of Teapots and bring it up to my place for a general run in and testing on the dyno mule before actually installing it on his engine.  It looks like I’ll be in charge of linkages and fuel lines at this point.



Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)


'60 Fairlane
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Ted thank you for posting the grind number information on the custom Isky camshaft you used in the 1.04 HP/CI build. I've been wanting to ask about that cam since you first put up a link to that build a while back. How important to the success of that engine were the metric rings?
I've always thought split duration cams were a good idea when running cast exhaust manifolds and I'm thinking about trying to duplicate your efforts for my 1960 Fairlane with a few small differences. 1) will use a 312 crankshaft and 2) use enough compression to take full benefit of our locally available alcohol free fuel, which typically runs at 91 octane.
Now that Mr. Miller has had some time to live with this engine has he reported back to you his impressions, or if he has made any changes to the axle gearing, etcetera?
Again thank you for your willingness to share with all us "little guys".
-Dave



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