I have a 292 c.i. (Cleveland Foundry C1AE) fed by an electric fuel pump.  I was going to try the mechanical pump (which is completely bypassed) but when I looked in my 1954 Repair and Adjustment Manual it looks like my fuel pump is installed upside down.  Is that even possible or did it change on the 292?

It looks correct and do not think one could be installed upside down.


Butchering up everything I can get my hands on in Dayton Ohio

Thanks,  I was hoping the manual was wrong but you never know.

The 54 Ford fuel pump is different and it does look like its upside down compared to the 55 up fuel pumps,so your 54 shop manual is correct for that year  Carl

Mystery solved.  The picture above shows a '54 (256 c.i.) fuel pump installed on a 312 c.i.  It doesn't work and it is upside down compared to how it was installed on a 256 c.i.  The pump appears to be a '54 256 c.i. only pump.

The 1954 Ford 239 and 1954 Mercury 256 engines do incorporate a reverse mounted fuel pump.  I do come across the 292/312 engines where they have had the 1954 timing covers installed and these require the 1954 fuel pumps.  This allowed the ’54 cars to also still retain the 1954 specific water pumps.  While the 1954 specific timing covers do require a 1954 only water pump which has a smaller bolt pattern than subsequent years, another identifying feature of those timing covers is that the fuel pump bolts are a 5/16-18 thread whereas the 1955 and later covers use a 3/8-16 thread to attach the fuel pumps.  Many marine engines still incorporated the upside down fuel pumps (using 5/16-18 bolts) for a number of years after Ford discontinued its use in cars and trucks.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks Ted,

This one has been bugging me for a while.  So if I want a stock appearing fuel pump, I can put a '54 timing cover and water pump on my 312 and use the '54 fuel pump.  What other obvious things would have to changed to make the 312 look like the original 256??

That depends how far you want to take it, how much money you want to spend, and for what reason you are doing it.  They could include Intake, carburetor,  air cleaner, valve covers, core plugs in the heads, carburetor, distributor, oil pump, exhaust, oil pan,

If you're just doing it for average car shows, then very likely nothing further needs to be done.  Not many people know the difference between a 239 and 312.  If it is only for the usual car show, write 239 on the car info, and no one will know the difference.

If it is for concourse, then it comes down to the rules.  Some you might get away with the wrong engine block numbers.  Others, you may not, in which case, only an original 239 will do.



Lawrenceville, GA

from looking at the picture is that not the fuel pump with vacuum supplement for vacuum wipers.i see the 2 vacum lines on top

As Charlie brings up, the fuel pump and water pump are minor depending upon how original you want it to look.  For a more original appearance, you’d want a round top exhaust manifolds, a Teapot carb with a corresponding small carb flanged intake and a Load-O-Matic distributor.  From a technology standpoint, that would be taking several steps backwards.  I have to add that the 1954 fuel pump and water pump being one year only models makes them more difficult to find.
 
Having the correct paint color on the engine and appropriate decals on the valve covers along with a period correct air cleaner tends to restore most of the original looks without having to take away all the later model engine improvements.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)