I have to take my oil pan off to check rod journals.  I'm not sure how to unscrew the oil pump tube from the oil pan...........Does it just unscrew?  I don't want to start unscrewing it and screw something up.......There is a large nut next to the oil pan but I can't figure out by looking at it how it works so as not to leak..........

Ron Tron

Hi, better to leave the tube attached to the pan and remove it from the oil pump only.The pickup
is part of that tube on the side of the pan, that big nut locks the tube to the pan...can't remove the tube
from the outside of the pan.

The nut just unscrews.  The gasket goes on the inside of the pan.  That gasket should be included with an oil pan gasket set.



Lawrenceville, GA

so I got all the bolts out and tube undone from the pump but the damn pan is stuck........I can't figure out how to get it off........

Ron Tron

When I took mine off I loosened the nut at oil pump end and then removed oil pan with tube attached, it will pull off easily at pump end.   You may have to use screwdriver to pry pan off,    raise engine to get pan past crossmember.

First, make sure that you did remove all of the bolts and nuts.  There are 22 total.

You can try hitting it with a mallet or plastic tipped hammer.  Use common sense here, it's just sheet metal, you will damage it if you're not careful.

I usually loose my patience with that and go for a screw driver.  Work it carefully and slowly between the pan and block and pry gently.  Move along the pan rail, every half inch or so.  Don't pry hard and don't use a hammer.  That will prevent you from damaging the block or pan.  Usually once about a half of one side has been loosened, it starts to come off pretty easily.



Lawrenceville, GA

Also, you may need to rotate the crank to get the front throw up far enough to get the pan off. If it's down it will interfere with the pan, assuming it has a rear sump.

Okay guys and gals I got the pan off by grinding down a putty knife and sharping the end and running it around the sides with a small hammer..........It took time but it finally loosened.

Just a not here for those who care this Y block is not in a stock car but a 36 ford pickup with and unknown front suspension. I have had it since 1976 when I bought the truck for 500 bucks......

This engine has always been bomb proof until I had my son-in-law who owns a shop in Durango,Co rebuilt it............but he didn't do the work like I expected.........he put one of his mechanics on it and this guy shouldn't be allowed in a auto shop after all the problems and screw ups he did to my girl........

I am having a horrible knocking noise is why I am removing the pan and after finally getting it done there are no loose rod journals so I don't still know what is causing the rod knocking sound.  It was suggested it was a wrist pin but it doesn't smoke.  

Ron Tron

How is the oil pressure?

When does the knocking occur?  All the time, only cold, only hot?

The fuel pump can make a sort of knocking noise.  The spur gear oil pump can as well.  These do not necessarily indicate a problem, but worth looking into.


Lawrenceville, GA

I'm pulling the engine this weekend and hoping its the flex plate making the noise.   Don Hyde out of Plano Texas is a genius with this stuff and he told me those old flex plates that are riveted can make the same noise as a rod knocking..........I'm thinking and hoping its the flex plate because when I took it back to Durango years ago to have my son-in-law rebuild it we found that it wasn't a rod then knocking it was the flex plate.........and the putz that tore it down and put it back together put the old flex plate back in it instead of a new style......the thing that confuses me is how did the old flex plate put back in the rebuild not knock until 20,000 miles later.  Maybe he welded the crack or something. I will know more when I pull the motor this weekend.......and share with you all

Ron Tron