I have a 62 292 to rebuild but could have a deal in the works for another 62 292 thats in a 55 with all the manual trans parts that runs,what I need to know is what all was done to those motors to detune them and is it really noticeable from a 57 to 59 motor. It all depends on how much money will be wanted for this motor but would hate to buy it and have to really tear into it if there is a big difference between the 57 to 59 and later motors,if there is a big difference than I might hold out for a 57 to 59 292 if its too much money but if its very reasonable I will grab it mainly for all the manual trans parts and build to 57 specs since its supposed to be low miles but we all know how that usually ends up to be.


Butchering up everything I can get my hands on in Dayton Ohio

Hopefully, someone with more knowledgeable will chime in. The blocks were the same, and I think the pistons were also. The heads can vary, both by valve size and chamber volume. Unless you're going to run a blower, or high comp pistons, I don't think "posted" heads matter much. Rocker arm ratios can vary. Check Mummert's site, all the casting numbers are there.

Next would be the cam, but that's probably something you'd replace in a rebuild. 2 or 4 barrel manifold, advance curve, Loadomatic dizzy, you know about that.

By 62 they were pretty much truck motors and the same. But who knows what's in there till you at least pull the vavle covers, see the rocker numbers and the head casting numbers.

Amazing they're 292's, I thought all used yblock's were 312's.😀

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

As I recall, smaller valves and less lift on the rocker arms. My cousin had a nice '62 Galaxie hardtop with a 292 three on the tree. He switched to '57 ECZG heads from the Ford rebuilder and a '57 312 4 barrel and dual exhausts. Ran pretty good considering there were no other changes that I recall.

I think we're all saying pretty much the same thing, Jeff.

To optimize a post '57 FoMoCo y-block, consider heads with bigger intake valves AND more compression ('G's or 113s would be ideal), consider swapping to a '57 and up 4 barrel intake manifold (some post '56 HD truck engines used these on 292 engines), and install '57 and up exhaust headers and dual exhaust pipes to the rear.  Yes, the '56 or '57 1.54:1 ratio rocker arms would be good to use, but they're getting harder to come by;  all the other year y-blocks before and after '56/'57 used 1.43:1 ratio. 

NOTE:  While they breathe GooD, I would not install 471 heads (vintage '59 312 Merc and '59 Ford 292 truck) with their large 'G' and 113 size intake valves because their combustion chamber size yields such a low static compression ratio.  The 471 heads coupled with a performance camshaft that keeps the intake valve open well after BDC will produce a dynamic compression ratio below 8.0:1 which will negatively curtail low speed performance, throttle response, and low speed drive-ability. 

IMO, THE most significant performance killer on the post 1957 y-blocks was FoMoCo's installation of a camshaft with less lift and duration.  This was an intentional move on Ford's part.  They wanted to sell the new '58 Ford application 332 and 352 big blocks which became the 352, 390, and 406s in the early '60s.   Consider swapping to a Y-265S camshaft from John Mummert OR talk to Ted Eaton about his recommendation for something made-up for your transmission application (standard or automatic) by Iskenderian.

Scroll down through this web page of John Mummert's off-the-shelf offerings and notice the significant difference in lift and duration numbers between a replacement y-block stock camshaft and JM's beginning performance offering.  Click the link below...
http://www.ford-y-block.com/valvetrain.htm

Again, ALL of the items mentioned by Forum members have a definite role in how your engine performs, BUT if you change the heads, the intake, and the exhaust and do not install a healthier camshaft, I think that you'll be disappointed in how your efforts are rewarded.

Hope this helps.  


NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

One point I will make,when Ted Eaton builds a motor his first choice is a 60s block,less core shift so can be bored out more.The heads and other parts will all work on the C2 block

Just a minor note on the 471 heads. According to Mummert, they're all posted. And those large chambers work well on a blower motor. John ported a set of them for me and that's what's on my F code motor. Might be a small market, but if one motor has a set of them, that's who you wait to sell them to.

The real key to your question is "what's actually there". After 45 to 50 years, you really need to see the casting numbers and rocker arms.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

I have the 57 4 bbl intake and a set of 57 to 62 exhaust manifolds along with a set of the better rocker arms to go on what ever motor I end up with,since I have a 62 motor unless the other 62 motor is priced at what I would expect to pay for the manual trans parts alone there would be no sense in buying it since I would have to change the heads and cam and I do not have a set of the good heads or cam. I just want a motor that will move my 55 sunliner down the highway with decent power.


Butchering up everything I can get my hands on in Dayton Ohio

I went back and read your post about where you're headed with the car. If it goes down the road ok now, the 3 sp o/d will work fine. Might need the o/d only on the road, or use 2nd over a bit. So get the manual parts you need, but check out the motor for good later model parts. Just in case there's a deal hidden there.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

It goes down the road good now with a 351-W but it needs a Y block again so I am trying to get all the parts to put a good running one back in,since my dad bought it new I am thinking about building the drivetrain the way I would have ordered the car and it would have been with a 3 speed with o/d. If I go with a manual trans I am thinking about a hotter cam then a 57 grind.


Butchering up everything I can get my hands on in Dayton Ohio

Jeff.  IF I'm understanding what you're setting out to do AND how you're planning to use the engine, I would not be concerned with which engine block you start out with nor whether you have the best-ist (new word for optimum) set of cylinder heads to use with it.

I have high regard for 56Roger's suggestions, comments and the realistic considerations he suggested for selecting what you obtain to work on.

The existing condition of the parts you have the opportunity to start with will be all important in determining what the project will entail to accomplish completion.    


NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York