I lost the square washer that goes between the accel. pump shaft spring and the pump operating rod on my Holley 4000.  The compressed spring assembly slipped out of my grasp, and the washer went flying into the ether.  I was lucky just to find the spring, and since I overlooked that the washer was gone (likely under the hood somewhere), it probably fell out on the highway later, I'm guessing.  I swept out the garage twice and screened all the dirt, but no luck. 
 Not exactly a critical component (pump works fine without it), but better safe than sorry, so I want to replace it.  Looks like something very easy to fabricate out of scrap metal, especially if I had one to copy, so if no one out there has a spare to sell, could they at least loan me one so the copy will be accurate?  

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Check with Mike Suter.  he repairs/rebuilds teapots and may have the part you need.215-757-3678


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Daniel.  If this is the part you need, email me your snail mail address and I’ll drop one in an envelope for you.  My email information can be found under ‘Contact’ at www.eatonbalancing.com .
 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

A bit off-subject, but I thought I would just mention why I had the spring assembly out to begin with:
My car was stored for two years, and while the gas in the tank had Stabil in it (I also changed it for fresh after one year), old fuel in the carb. apparently gummed-up the pump check ball (?) since the engine wasn't run. Resulting low rpm hesitation acted just like a deteriorated pump cup (I've had to change several over the years due to ethanol). But, when I pulled & examined it (blue viton), it looked fine. I had some black viton spares, and swapped in several (hoping one would work better that the rest), thus repeatedly operating the pump and checking squirt strength multiple times. Eventually, the check ball loosened (I'm assuming) and the original blue cup is now back in use, and the pump squirts are now strong. I'm thinking of maybe running a can of carb cleaner through through the fuel system (do they still sell that stuff?) since there is likely gum in the other passages, and the carb is really not ready for a rebuild yet. But, maybe enough fresh gas containing today's injector cleaner chemicals will eventually clean things up adequately with a lot of driving. Any suggestions?

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

P.S. I also am experiencing a mildly jerky low rpm cruise condition (lean surge?). Retarding the timing back near factory spec. seems to help some, but I suspect the jets/fuel passages are varnished, thus leaning out the mixture. Only a problem when cruising around the local low speed limit lake road, and car runs fine otherwise. I'll give the fresh gasoline injector cleaner additives a chance to work before I try a more aggressive carb cleaning product.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

Daniel.  If you tried sending me an email, I didn’t receive it.  You can use this alternative email address as the email address on my website has been known to not come through at times.
 
eatonbalancing at yahoo dot com .

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Ted,
Sent another email.
Dan

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA

[quote][b]DANIEL TINDER (8/1/2016)I also am experiencing a mildly jerky low rpm cruise condition (lean surge?). Retarding the timing back near factory spec. seems to help some, but I suspect the jets/fuel passages are varnished, thus leaning out the mixture. Only a problem when cruising around the local low speed limit lake road, and car runs fine otherwise. I'll give the fresh gasoline injector cleaner additives a chance to work before I try a more aggressive carb cleaning product.

Update: A bit more spark retard and turning the idle screws out a half turn totally cured the problem.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA