The sealer instruction was probably an artifact left over from the flathead manuals since their head bolts do go into water. The proofreaders likley just missed it. That stuff can go on for years if nobody points it out.

I agree, it was printed that way in many factory shop manuals, I'm sure in error as we know the holes are blind. You can never take everything in the shop manuals as 100% gospel. The manuals are printed early and afterwards there are many engineering changes and corrections made but those only get sent to dealers.

My understanding is that some of the original service manuals and books on Y-Blocks say to use sealer on some of the bolts, but in time experts like Ted have figured out that the sealer is not needed.  I had the same concern when I built my engine years ago, as I didn't use sealer

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

WOW!  Have I finally lucked out on something I've done in trying to build this engine?  I could have sworn I was supposed to use some kind of sealer, at least on some bolts.  I also had a Felpro gasket that looked like the picture, so I guess I am good to go?

One other thing.  I followed the torque instructions in a 1956 Shop Manual.  It called for torqueing the bolts in three stages:  55 pounds, then 65, then 75.  Is this correct?  Or have the torque values changed over the years?

No sealer is required for the head bolts on a Y-block.

Some of the passages will be blocked off in the head gasket.  That is correct.  The key to head gasket installation is to ensure that  the square corners are at the front of the engine, toward the valley.

from www.ford-y-block.com, this is what the gasket should look like.  Felpro will probably look more like the one at the top.





Lawrenceville, GA

why replace the capscrews for studes.   secondley water flowes threw the block comes up at the rear of the heads(so large holes in gasket must be to the rear) then water comes to the front of the heads and out the intake via the therm.prev posts show how to determine if gasket is in corectly with engine asembled. and all ys have blind holes for bolts holding heads on. 

I know some head bolts need a special sealer for the water jacket. Which bolts need this kind of sealer? All of them? Or should some bolts be left alone or use something else on the threads? I screwed up (just plain forgot or got in a hurry) and didn't put on the sealer. I gather from this post I need to buy a new head gasket and start over?

I also noticed my gasket covered over some holes on the block (like another poster recently mentioned). I have a 292. I bought a Felpro that I thought looked identical to the one the engine builder used. Where should I go to find a single gasket that fits correctly?

Because once you loosen one bolt you change the torque values on the bolts next to it, then when you retighten the new stud or bolt you will get a faulty reading on the torque wrench.

I'm stepping out of my comfort zone here, but why can't they be done one at a time as long as the studs can be seated in the block.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

You have to remove the head and start over, with new head gaskets