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bill gors
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Hitting on all eight cylinders
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 8 Years Ago
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I have 2 1959 Ford/Dearborn Marine 292 Interceptor engines. Y-Block 8 cyl. 2 Carter carb set-up. Salvaged and cleaned, ready for rebuilding. Side by side twin engines (1 standard rotation and 1 "right hand" reverse rotation). Both blocks have identical crack but are most likely easily repairable. Good heads, cylinders, pistons, crank, carbs. Completely disassembled (except rotating assembly) cleaned and reassembled. Factory complete. Missing only 2 small external pcs on second engine. Primered block. Needs all gaskets, seals, etc. Comes with watercooled exhaust manifolds, points-type distributors, boat transmissions, starters (working). I would like to sell as a set. Looking for $1000. South East Michigan. These can be truck shipable bgors@hotmail.com
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PF Arcand
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 8 Months Ago
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Cracks in the blocks is a serious concern. .can you be more specific about location etc?
Paul
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bill gors
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Hitting on all eight cylinders
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 8 Years Ago
Posts: 7,
Visits: 39
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Hi Paul, The cracks are on the left side of the block right in the middle. They are about 3" long do not appear to have any effect on the cylinders only coolant. I think i have a pic posted, if not, i will post one.
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bill gors
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Hitting on all eight cylinders
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 8 Years Ago
Posts: 7,
Visits: 39
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lowrider
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Last Active: 2 days ago
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I had a 272 I was building as a 292 and the machinist found a crack in the same area as yours. Had it welded up at another shop he recommended and it's been running fine with no leaks for about 4yrs now. If I were in the market for one of those I wouldn't hesitate to look at either of those.
Dan Kingman Az. 86409
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bill gors
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Hitting on all eight cylinders
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 8 Years Ago
Posts: 7,
Visits: 39
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Thanks Dan. I dont have a use for them but they were going to be scrapped with the boat they were in and i couldnt let that happen
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MoonShadow
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Last Active: 13 minutes ago
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One of the boat motors I picked up some years ago has been brazed in the same place on both sides. I'm not sure if its a freeze crack in a water passage or a stress crack from the mounting. Most of these engines that I have seen don't use the automotive mounts but have a bracket at the front and rear on the four corners. Maybe Ted or Harry or John or? Can shed some light on this. Is there a water passage directly behind this crack area?
Y's guys rule! Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.
MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi) Manchester, New Hampshire
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bill gors
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Hitting on all eight cylinders
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 8 Years Ago
Posts: 7,
Visits: 39
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Im pretty sure its a freeze crack. Each engine had a popped freeze plug. Ive heard of guys welding these cracks and others have epoxyed them. If i were going to rebuild them i would probably use epoxy.
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MoonShadow
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 13 minutes ago
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I had a scrub motor in a hot rod. Had a 6" crack on the lower left side. Definately following a water passage. I ground it out some to get an area to bite and put on a Marine Epoxy. I can't remember the name of the stuff but apparently it's the go to stuff for boats. I sealed the crack in 1991 and it was still dry when I sold the engine this year. I'd say it worked!
Y's guys rule! Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.
MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi) Manchester, New Hampshire
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Bobwanna
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Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 2 Months Ago
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Bill, Another thought on the crack repair. I have never done this but read about it. (I have an old Ford flathead with a crack in it) If the crack has a beginning and end, like yours do, in the block it can be"stitch" repaired. Basically you drill a small pilot hole, thread it for a #6 screw and install screw. Move along the crack and pilot drill and tap #6 into the joint between the last repair and install #6 screw. I think the commercially available kits use a tapered kind of tap and screw. This is hard for me to explain here but I have included a link to get the gears turning. Of course there are several ways to do this but the concept is the same I sure hope you can save those engines - Bob http://www.locknstitch.com/index.html http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/engine-block-repair.html
AKA Bob-93021
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