Hi guys. I'm trying to keep these together since they are complete. However I am willing to separate and sell the engines individually. I could do 500 for each. Maybe a bit less for the marine engine which is a lor less than I see some individual parts going for. I'm in lower Michigan. I could crate and ship it but i would need to figure a price for shipping unless you are in the area and can pick up. Shoot me an email if yoy are interested. Bgors@hotmail.com thank you for your interest

Saw these on eBay... try these links...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/361386242265
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111748973678
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331707953883
http://www.ebay.com/itm/172190924889

eBay prices can be all over the place, like everything else.  Ted Eaton said in an earlier thread that the Carter carbs will likely need some modification for car use due to the difference in low end / part throttle / wide range rpm use in cars compared to how they're used in marine applications.

Hope this helps. 


NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

Do you still have these engines? I am looking for one of the induction setups from a marine application. Would you be willing to part this out?

Bill: If you can't move the engines here, I suggest trying a classified ad at;  Y-Block Magazine, PO Box 1005, Ottawa Illinois 61350. Published bi monthly. Ad rate is a very reasonable 10c/word, $3.00 minimum.  If you want further info, email; yblockmag@yahoo.com   Bruce Young, is the Editor.   


Paul

Thanks Bob. I've heard about that process. I will read the article and learn more. I appreciate the info. Thank you!

Bill, Another thought on the crack repair. I have never done this but read about it. (I have an old Ford flathead with a crack in it) If the crack has a beginning and end, like yours do, in the block it can be"stitch" repaired. Basically you drill a small pilot hole, thread it for a #6 screw and install screw. Move along the crack and pilot drill and tap #6 into the joint between the last repair and install #6 screw. I think the commercially available kits use a tapered kind of tap and screw. This is hard for me to explain here but I have included a link to get the gears turning. Of course there are several ways to do this but the concept is the same I sure hope you can save those engines - Bob

http://www.locknstitch.com/index.html 
http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/engine-block-repair.html


AKA   Bob-93021

I had a scrub motor in a hot rod. Had a 6" crack on the lower left side. Definately following a water passage. I ground it out some to get an area to bite and put on a Marine Epoxy. I can't remember the name of the stuff but apparently it's the go to stuff for boats. I sealed the crack in 1991 and it was still dry when I sold the engine this year. I'd say it worked!


Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Im pretty sure its a freeze crack. Each engine had a popped freeze plug. Ive heard of guys welding these cracks and others have epoxyed them. If i were going to rebuild them i would probably use epoxy.

One of the boat motors I picked up some years ago has been brazed in the same place on both sides. I'm not sure if its a freeze crack in a water passage or a stress crack from the mounting. Most of these engines that I have seen don't use the automotive mounts but have a bracket at the front and rear on the four corners. Maybe Ted or Harry or John or? Can shed some light on this. Is there a water passage directly behind this crack area?


Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Thanks Dan. I dont have a use for them but they were going to be scrapped with the boat they were in and i couldnt let that happen