In trying to stop an oil leak at the canister on my 292, I decided to install a screw on type adapter. After removing the original can, I got a DC kit. This kit requires removing the threaded fitting out of the block and using their threaded fitting which has a 3/4 nipple on the outer side for the spin on filter to spin onto. This resulted in a good size leak. Next, I tried a kit made by Wix. This kit leaves the original threaded adapter in the block, using their threaded adapter, which is 3/4" threads on both ends to hold the plate on. Even bigger leak with this setup. I tried to reinstall the canister back on and it leaks way more than it did to start with! I noticed that the plates from both kits had the word "top" notated on them. The DC plate had an oval hole at about the 4:30 position to correspond with a hole in the block. The Wix kit had 3x 1/4" holes in about the 11to 1 o'clock position. I cleaned the block with brake clean and lightly glued the gasket to the block, making sure the gasket was below the hole at 4:30position in the block on solid machined surface.I used no sealer of any kind. Should there be some sort of plate at the block even under the canister system, as mine had none. Also, if so, would the Wix plate just piggy back on top of an existing plate? Any help would surely be appreciated, thanks.

While I have no direct experience with the DC or Wix oil filter adapter kits, both kits should have come with a new adapter plate which will replace the thin tin plate that’s used with a canister oil filter.  Be sure that original tin plate is removed and discarded.  It’s important that those oil filter adapter plates have a center hole that’s slightly raised when the oil filter plate is sitting on a flat surface.  If it’s not ‘raised’, then here’s the link to an article that will help to get the correct deformation back into the plate.
 
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/tech/html/oil_filter.html
 
I’ve seen some of the aftermarket plates with the ‘TOP’ being labeled in the wrong spot.  The holes or slot in the plate just below the oil filter gasket flange should always be at the top when installed on the engine.  I’ve also seen the ‘TOP’ impression on the aftermarket plates actually stamped where the oil filter gasket resides which can force an oil leak.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

I don't have a thin plate at the block under the original canister to start with. Maybe that's why the canister was leaking to start with. The DC plate is flat across the back side, meaning the outer flat that contacts the gasket is level with the center area that touches the block where the retaining fitting goes through into the block. The Wix plate has more crown about it but that is because it goes OVER the original fitting to make the new fitting fit the thread size. However, it almost seems as if the backside of the Wix plate touches the original fitting before sufficient clamp load is realized at the gasket. To repeat, I had/have NO thin plate at the block under the canister as it came off to start with.

One more thing. Is there a torque spec for the fitting that secures the plate to the block and even for the long hollow "bolt" that holds a canister on. Also, what is inside the hollow "bolt"', looks like a spring or plunger. Is that a bypass feature or ........?

you need to make sure the outer gasket surface touches the block/gasket before the bolt surface contacts, this makes sure you have ample pressure on the gasket surface. if not you have to form it by using round dies/sockets whatever works to bend it evenly and get the plate so the gasket surface contacts before the bolt. The gasket surfaces dont have much flat to them so I take a nice flat sharpening stone to them to make sure all areas contact. by running it on a nice stone will show you if you have any low spots, stone it untill it is flat.

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