Just rebuilt my 292.  The engine had been (previously) changed from the canister filter to a FL1A and I replaced the o-ring on the adapter.  On initial start the oil leak was severe.  Traced it to the adapter and replaced the o-ring again.  Torqued to the required 25 ft.lbs.  Engine cranked and ran for approx. 10 minutes with no leaks.  After sitting for a month, the leak is back and maybe worse.  Oil pressure is normal.  The only modification is from a stock 2-barrell to a Mummert aluminum 4-barrell, Edelbrock carb and added power brake booster.  Otherwise, stock. 

I had some problems like this and went back to the canister.  No problems after that.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Thanks...Considering that too!

this may help

 http://www.y-block.info/tips/waltnuckels/waltnuckels.html 
stuey

Is it aftermarket or an original? I bought an original an have never had a problem. I did read somewhere that the gasket could slide/move as your tightening the bolt so putting a spray adhesive on one side would help. I changed to the spin on because the PS lines were a pain to get around..GoodLuck.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

stues sight pritey well sums it ,tho i drill holes oposite the slot so the adaptor does not warp when tightened. ther are those who say the slot being ontop is criyical,i disagree,as spin ons all have a check valve that eliminates blead back when engine stoped.tightening the spinon corectley also helps keep adaptor evenley in place. the extra hole i sugest also reduces restriction of oilflow into the spinon have did this change on several ys alonk with being sure adaptor is corect re stues mention

A deformed or ‘relaxed’ oil filter adapter plate would be the number one thing to look at in regards to an oil leak in that area besides an improperly installed gasket.  Placing the oil filter adapter on a flat surface and insuring that the center pad sits at least 1/16” above the outside surface will insure that the adapter is putting adequate crush on the gasket.  The link in the post above shows one way in which to reform the adapter to it can provide an adequate amount of crush to the gasket.  On my end I use a mandrel in a hydraulic press which gets the job done.
 
Here’s another link regarding straightening the oil filter adapters.
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/tech/html/oil_filter.html
 
And then there are those oil filter adapters that are manufactured offshore and made from a lighter gauge material which subsequently do not seal very well.  Some of these also have ‘TOP’ in the wrong place as well as the “TOP’ impression being stamped onto the oil filter seal surface.  “TOP” should be above the inner oil hole or slot and not to the side or opposite of it.  Obviously not much thought went into these particular adapters.  The first time you use an oil filter with a faulty check valve or no valve at all, then that slot or holes in the filter adapter plate will be quite noticeable if the hole is not at the top upon starting up the engine after it sits for awhile.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)