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I just stumbled upon this site today and have hopes there is someone who can answer my questions! I have a '55 two door Customline with a rear mounted R&P and I am wondering how you guys overcame the sharp angle from the rack to the column. I am looking for a column right now and would also like to know what column you guys used. I am thinking an Ididit 12" or 16".
I have a 5.4L DOHC Lincoln Navigator engine in it so there is no way for me to go back to a conventional setup as there is absolutely no room to get a shaft up to the front from the column. Any help you could provide would be really appreciated!
Dave
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I don't know the differences between a 55 bird and a Customline, let alone with the motor in there, but I'll share my experience. I've got a Cavalier rack, hooked to an ididit column. The column is short, just a couple inches thru the firewall. I was able to connect the two with a pair of u joints, but it was tight. You may need a center joint, and that means a support bearing. This is all doable with DD shafts, and the proper splines adaptors. You'll need a proper fitting support under the dash (column drop), and a really good solid mount at the firewall.
Several companies sell these parts, Borgenson's and Flaming Rivier come to mind. Juliano's has a floor/column mount for the end.
Follow all the instructions for the shafts and u joints. Countersink the shaft for the set screws, structurally sound support for center bearing if needed. The works. There's too many stories about cobbled together steering failing, and they don't have happy endings.
I didn't have very good luck with the bump steer with the rack. It wasn't much worse than stock, but when I added the front 7" rims (3.5" backspace) with 225-60-15's, the bump steer really became noticeable. We fab'ed a pretty involved adaptor plate with heim jointed ends, all safety wired race car stuff. Works perfect now, but those components are more subject to wear and noise. So you might take a look at that before you continue, and make sure the rack and its mounting/location are what they should be.
There's also some offset steering devices, two sprockets and a chain, aluminum housing, different lengths. I've got one of those in my 32, but I don't know about weight limitations in a heavier car. That would be the last chance answer.
miker 55 bird, 32 cabrio F code Kent, WA Tucson, AZ
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miker (11/22/2015)
I don't know the differences between a 55 bird and a Customline, let alone with the motor in there, but I'll share my experience. I've got a Cavalier rack, hooked to an ididit column. The column is short, just a couple inches thru the firewall. I was able to connect the two with a pair of u joints, but it was tight. You may need a center joint, and that means a support bearing. This is all doable with DD shafts, and the proper splines adaptors. You'll need a proper fitting support under the dash (column drop), and a really good solid mount at the firewall. Several companies sell these parts, Borgenson's and Flaming Rivier come to mind. Juliano's has a floor/column mount for the end. Follow all the instructions for the shafts and u joints. Countersink the shaft for the set screws, structurally sound support for center bearing if needed. The works. There's too many stories about cobbled together steering failing, and they don't have happy endings. I didn't have very good luck with the bump steer with the rack. It wasn't much worse than stock, but when I added the front 7" rims (3.5" backspace) with 225-60-15's, the bump steer really became noticeable. We fab'ed a pretty involved adaptor plate with heim jointed ends, all safety wired race car stuff. Works perfect now, but those components are more subject to wear and noise. So you might take a look at that before you continue, and make sure the rack and its mounting/location are what they should be. There's also some offset steering devices, two sprockets and a chain, aluminum housing, different lengths. I've got one of those in my 32, but I don't know about weight limitations in a heavier car. That would be the last chance answer. Thanks for your advice! This will get me in the right direction. I was thinking of starting the u-joints under the dash with a really short column and cutting a new hole for the shaft to go through to meet the rack. Maybe I will be able to figure it out and get it to work going through the factory hole. it still may interfere with the exhaust as well. Won't know until I get the shaft in. The exhaust can be worked around and if need be I can get a set of headers (which are limited for the 5.4). It's a pretty tight fit in there.  This is looking through the firewall where the column would go through.
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They aren't cheap. But, they seem to hold up. Check the weight rating. Supporting a column under the dash is possible, but they're usually sprint car set ups, and the box/assembly can be supported on the sides. Doing it under the dash side of the firewall is going to be an interference problem with the pedal assembly. http://www.ididitinc.com/accessories-3/SteerClear_Acc-61Before you cobble something up, find a big empty parking lot, and drive around for a while without holding the steering wheel. That's what a failure is going to be like.
miker 55 bird, 32 cabrio F code Kent, WA Tucson, AZ
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That Wizard Steer Clear may alleviate many headaches. Not really worried about the cost; just want it to work right. I just looked at the car again and this just may be my answer. Thanks! I looked on the manufacturer's page and seeing the cars, trucks and buses they put it in, I don't think the weight of my '55 will be an issue.
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These steering drops have been around since at least the 50's. I've seen them made with timing chains and gears. If dropping the location would help. http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/261842704882?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82
Y's guys rule! Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.
  MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi) Manchester, New Hampshire
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I really think this may solve my problems.
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