Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 3 Months Ago
Posts: 178,
Visits: 21.8K
|
Thanks to all. Will be plodding along on this as I'm also building the frame and suspension at the same time. MIKE
Mike, still lovin his 57 t'bird after 53 years!
|
Group: Administrators
Last Active: 2 days ago
Posts: 7.4K,
Visits: 205.0K
|
My own preference are the Eagle H-Beam rods in many of the Y stroker builds that I do. The Eagle rods do tend to be somewhat lighter in weight than the Scat rods of the same design. For the offset ground factory crankshafts, I’ll use the 6.125” long rods utilizing the 2.00” journals and the 0.927” pin. For stroker cranks using the Honda rod journals (1.889”), I’ll use the 6.250” or 6.300” Eagle rods with a 0.927” pin. The EMC engine this year used a 6.300” rod simply due to the lower octane fuel that was being used. On my end, the wrist pin height location in the piston is easily changed during the ordering process with most pistons targeting for a 9.750” deck height value.
 Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 3 Months Ago
Posts: 178,
Visits: 21.8K
|
Thanks to all so far for getting me started. I will call John this week. MIKE
Mike, still lovin his 57 t'bird after 53 years!
|
Group: Moderators
Last Active: 2 minutes ago
Posts: 6.1K,
Visits: 441.8K
|
No che vy rod will just bolt in. The rods will need to be narrowed to fit. So it doesn't really matter from who you get them. However, if you call John, he may have some you can use. You will also need custom pistons because che vy wrist pins are a different diameter and the different stroke and rod length combo will require a certain compression height to ensure that the top of the piston ends up where you want it.
Lawrenceville, GA
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 47 minutes ago
Posts: 1.8K,
Visits: 190.8K
|
When we offset ground the 312 cranks, we used (I think) 2" and 2.1" scrubby bearings. Two different motors. I don't recall the rods being scrubby's. So maybe that's where that came from. Too many years ago to recall for sure.
miker 55 bird, 32 cabrio F code Kent, WA Tucson, AZ
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 3 Months Ago
Posts: 178,
Visits: 21.8K
|
Plan to look for a vintage Cragar manifold. If I fail at that suspect I'll probably go with Y-Bloke manifold. Looks really good. I really thought given the level of knowledge and experience of members of this board that someone would have answered the I-Beam rod question. I'm still hoping someone answer the question soon. MIKE
Mike, still lovin his 57 t'bird after 53 years!
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 47 minutes ago
Posts: 1.8K,
Visits: 190.8K
|
I'd start by looking at John Mummert's site, then calling him. I've done two stroker motors with his parts, both 312 cranks. A 292 to 320, and a 312 to 340. Do you have the blower drive/blower/manifold yet? There's a couple guys here who've done that. I think "Rex" in Canada and another firm in Oz both have the set ups. I don't recall the details, I've always used SN or VR units. http://www.ford-y-block.com/stroker%20kits.htm
miker 55 bird, 32 cabrio F code Kent, WA Tucson, AZ
|
Group: Forum Members
Last Active: 3 Months Ago
Posts: 178,
Visits: 21.8K
|
I've decided on the engine for my next streetrod build.... A 471 supercharged 292! I have collected some of what I need but not all. I need some help with the rest of the shopping list. I have a 60 over 292 block, a forged crank that has been cut to scruby rod size and is off being nitrided and I have a good pair of unfilled 113 heads. I plan to use the crank pulley with an air conditioner pulley added to give me twin pulley drive for the supercharger an a sleeve for the alternator. I have heard of the use of scruby H beam rods in the y I could use some advice on which ones and from who. Any other comments are welcome.
Mike, still lovin his 57 t'bird after 53 years!
|