I'm using stock sender and gauge,as you say Charlie i assume the indicated temperature is normal and i'll become familiar with it,as i did with the old engine,,and will be concerned if the temperature changes from my usual 160°.

If using the stock sender location and the gauge indicates correctly, the indicated temperature will be about 15 degrees cooler than the temp at the thermostat.  This is because coolant has to travel across 3 more combustion chambers before it reaches the thermostat housing.

Mechanical gauges could indicate even cooler temperatures if the sender wire (whatever it's called) is not insulated.  In the winter, my gauge will indicate 140 or 150 but if I check the thermostat housing with the IR thermometer, it is over the thermostat rating.

The key with the gauge is simply to become familiar with it and learn what is normal so you know when there is a problem.  It may not be accurate enough for precise temperature indication in all conditions but you can know when something is wrong in virtually any condition if you are familiar with it.

Another thing to remember is when thoroughly warmed up, an engine will not operate below the thermostat rating at the thermostat housing, so say you have a 180 degree thermostat and whatever device you use to measure the temp indicates 160, then there is some problem or flaw (as with the mechanical gauge) with the device you use to measure the temperature or you're not getting the reading from the right spot (as with the stock sender location).



Lawrenceville, GA

I had the same problem with my 292 on temp, it just loved hanging at 160, went to a 190 thermostat and replaced the sender, sometimes the gauges can be a little tired too. I used an IR thermometer to spot check the temp at the thermostat and found my gauge was a little low as well.

My damper mark is way the heck out checked TDC on #1 got an MSD timing tape and some 3M double sided tape and replaced. Has held up for 4 years now.

Mike Rizzo

1963 F100 "Rudy"

Daniel Island, SC

Had a little spare time after holiday to work on the truck so i changed the spark wires with 8,5mm MSD super conductor and put 57 main jets on the Holley.
Went for a spin yesterday and it's like FLYING!!!!!
Absolute amazing,it's a complete different car compared to the worn out 272.
Now the temperature went back to constant 160° even in heavy traffic,guess i need a warmer thermostat.

170-180 is fine.  160 is really too cold.



Lawrenceville, GA

I finnaly won the war against vacuum leaks and returned the advance to 15° and now is idling pretty smooth and i'm reading 13-14 hg by 600rpm and 8-9 hg in gear by 450-500 rpm.
I noticed that in traffic temperature goes about 170°-180°,my previous 272 was a bit cooler,around 160°.Is that normal?

Assuming that the 20° timing reading is with the vacuum advance unplugged, then move the timing back to 16° and give it a try.  The only problem with the 20° initial value is that it makes the total timing much further out there and especially under light cruise situations where you are using the vacuum advance portion of the distributor.  If the distributor is re-curved with a shorter lead built into the timing curve, then the 20° value would be okay.
 
Be cautious in using ‘dial back’ timing lights as some of those give erroneous values.  There’s always the possibility that the damper marks are not in sync with the timing pointer; that can only be confirmed by doing a TDC check at the #1 or #6 piston and insuring the timing pointer is indeed at the zero mark on the damper.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks Ted for the info on how the cam should "feel".
Changed the pcv valve and put a smaller one,adjusted the idle screws on the carb and know i've 15-16 hg at idle by 650 rpm.
Set the advance with the vacuum gauge and it rides very good now but according to my timing light i'm at 20°.
Assuming the balancer is at his right place wuold this be a problem for the engine?

Changed the carburetor base plate gasket and now idles quite smooth.
I will check the timing in the next days and set it with the vacuum gauge.

Welcome to the site.  My own E4 camshaft in a 272 idles with 15-16 in/Hg vacuum.  10°-12° BTDC would be a normal starting place for the initial ignition timing and that would be checked with the vacuum to the distributor unhooked.  The Isky E4 ground on 108° lobe centers will have a small amount of 'rump' which is normal.  At this point, check that the damper ring hasn’t slipped as that will give an erroneous value when setting the timing with a light.  In lieu of double checking the TDC mark on the damper to insure it’s correct, try setting the timing to the maximum manifold vacuum reading with the distributor vacuum unhooked and see if that helps.

As far as to the poor idle, a bit more information will help.  All the valves need to be set correctly and the pistons/valves all need to be sealing.  The carburetor also needs to also be in good condition as any vacuum leaks, internal stoppages or restrictions at the air bleeds will create problems.  A cranking compression check will verify that all the cylinders are tight on both ring seal and the valves closing properly.  All cranking compression readings do need to be within 10% of each other from the lowest to the highest.  If there are any cylinder checks that are abnormally low for the compression readings, then readdress the valve lash on those particular cylinders.  If the valve lash checks out okay, then a leak down test on the cylinders will verify if you have a valve seating issue that will require the cylinders heads to be pulled off of the engine in which to correct.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)