Balancing, milling the heads, and decking the block for minimum piston to head clearance are just some of the ways to increase the performance while having the engine look stock.  As you’ll be replacing the pistons during a complete rebuild, then using a more modern piston that uses metric rings can be worth as much as twenty horsepower by itself.  Swapping out the original 2V carb with a later model and larger Autolite two barrel carburetor will also help the overall performance while still retaining the look of the original carburetor.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Some of the engine gurus may have other suggestions that don't show, but you might consider a street porting job. However, Y-heads are tricky & some of the old hogging out ideas don't work well on them. They have been extensively re worked and tested by John Mummert in the past & more recently by the fellow that goes by Joe JDC on this site. The other thought that comes to mind would be to use a 57 "B" intake & 4 barrel, only a concours judge would know it's not correct to that car & it can easily be restored to original..no harm done..        


Paul

Thanks Paul, I will be buying a rebuilt 292 from Cliff (from your area) and will also have him rebuild my heads.  The block is bored out .040" so there may be a slight improvement in performance.  The one thing I'd like to do is keep the car data plate correct.  That means a 292 2-barrel so no change there. Would you suggest some improvements I should consider that still keeps it "original"?

Jim: Welcome to the site.. Just a couple of thoughts on your engine overhaul. A Skyliner is a heavy vehicle, so the 292 is working hard.  So, you might  want to consider some performance upgrades, hidden or otherwise. There are good people on this site that can steer you in the right directions, and we have the benefit of downright experts here..  By the way, I also have a 57 Ford & am living just South of Vancouver B.C. & always willing to talk Y-Blocks.. Good luck with your project.      


Paul

Thanks so much for all the feedback.  You guys have got me re-thinking this project.  Normally I would just jump in and start tearing her down, getting ready for paint and body work.  However, I'm hitting the reset button and may modify that plan.  Maybe focus on mechanical - engine and tranny and at that time deal with prettying up the underside and engine compartment and the interior which requires a complete replacement.  Money-wise, that should take care of any "disposable income" I might have.  Then as far as the exterior goes, detail it as much as possible, warts and all.  After all, a paint job could always be done later.  A sound body like this opens a number of options.

OK,The offer is good for anyone else in need of the manual

Thanks for the offer Carl, but I've already got one and boy am I going to need it.

I have a 1957 Ford Retractable Hardtop shop manual that I got with some other manuals at a flea market,non't need it so if you can use it send me your address and I will mail it to you  Carl

The frustration I've experiences is setting out to fix one area that needs attention and upon getting it appropriately fixed, finding that an adjacent area that seemed perfectly 'okay' now looks dingy next to the restored section.      I've had this situation bite me particularly on interior upholstery.  'The door panels looked GooD, until I redid the seats.'  OUCH! 
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Charlie's point is a good one, too.  Vehicles that are truly original, are often more appreciated or even more valued by an enthusiast than those that are total body-off restorations.  All of us know that paint can hide a lot of former 'issues'.
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While it's nice to see an unbelievably straight car body, today we know that it likely means that the entire body skin was skim coated with plastic body filler and then blocked smooth (more true and straight) than anything that ever came off a manufacturer's production line.
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In some ways, Jim, with the quality of the car you're starting with, you've got decisions to make going forward that I will never even have to think about because you've got something that is sound to begin with.

Thought.  Consider taking LOTS of picture of whatever things you decide to re-do to show how good they were BEFORE you chose to refurbish it.  You're not bringing back a rust-bucket.  If you strip an area to repaint it, get pictures of the bare metal body sections before you start any re-painting.

Best wishes going forward.  Enjoy!  


NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

For me original paint is nice if there is no more than a few small blemishes otherwise a good paint job is the way to go. The problem is getting a good paint job done. The original paint from the factory would have been no more than about 200 microns total from surface to steel, but these days they plaster it on so thick it does not look correct as you loose the sharpness of the panel shapes and it also makes it weak and vulnerable to cracking. Unless you know how to do it well yourself getting a good job will be expensive, and a rare find like your's deserves to be done wright.
Many will talk the talk, but few can walk the walk.