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Man, you have been busy this winter Ted! That is so cool four more Y Blocks back on the road.
Glen Henderson
Freedom is not Free
Letohatchee, AL
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Are they all running Mummert Aluminum Heads? It looks like 3 of them are
Daniel JessupLancaster, California aka "The Hot Rod Reverend" 
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com
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Daniel. You’re right in that three of those engines have aluminum heads. Clockwise starting with the right hand black engine. 323 cubic inch – alum heads, Mummert intake – 420HP 317 cubic inch – alum heads, Blue Thunder Version 3 intake – 393HP 317 cubic inch – alum heads, Blue Thunder Version 2 intake – 389 HP 331 cubic inch – iron ported G heads, Edel FM255 dual quad – 347+ HP All these engines have different camshafts and the two 317 engines get there by way of different bore and stroke combinations. Different carburetors also on all engines so it’s quite a variety but all are designed to work on pump gasoline. There were no all out race engines in this group.
  Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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hi ted, can you give me the spec. on the 331 cu. in. engine, thanks, wayne.
lincoln/merc. y-blocks &mel's bucyrus, ohio.
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yalincoln (2/15/2015)
hi ted, can you give me the spec. on the 331 cu. in. engine, thanks, wayne.
Wayne. The 331 engine got there by way of a 3.820” bore and a 312 crankshaft offset ground to a 3.605” stroke. The camshaft is a 232/238 @ 0.050” grind on 108° lobe centers with 0.455” lift using the supplied 1.43:1 factory rockers. The aluminum headed engines all used the Harland Sharp 1.6:1 roller rockers.
Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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Would it be a breach of etiquette to ask about cost to get something like this?
Jim - Erie Colorado, 1957 Country Sedan
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jrw429 (2/16/2015)
Would it be a breach of etiquette to ask about cost to get something like this?
While it’s not necessarily a breach of etiquette to discuss pricing, pricing does vary from shop to shop simply for a variety of reasons. For that reason, I'll not post any exact dollar figures. Machine shop work pricing tends to be regional but I always recommend getting all machine work performed close to home when at all possible.
Due to each engine build being different, pricing will also be different. For that reason, it’s difficult to price an engine without knowing exactly what parts are being supplied and/or requested and what level of buildup is to be performed. While pricing tends to be regional, much of it still depends upon the parts being supplied by the customer with the core engine being an important part. The quality of the core parts such as blocks and crankshafts suitable for a rebuild, big valve cylinder heads, and four barrel intakes will drive some of the core parts prices higher. Keep in mind that on my end, there’s no such thing as a re-ring and re-bearing engine rebuild which would be the extreme lowend of the engine rebuild market. Even engines with marginal wear still require some extensive work and parts changing. Here’s a list of items you can use when making local machine shop inquiries regarding pricing. If shipping an engine to and from a shop, that’s simply another expense that must be considered. For the block: vatting, boring/honing the cylinders, cam tunnel alignment issues being corrected, lifter bores being honed, align honing the mains, plugging the steam holes, resurfacing the decks, grinding the crankshaft, main/rod/cam bearings, gaskets, rings, pistons, new rod bolts and wrist pin bushings, reconditioning the connecting rods, oil pump, new camshaft and lifters, pushrods, and a timing set. For the heads: vatting, checking for cracks, replacement valve guides, valves, installing hardened seats for unleaded fuel, spring, retainers, valve locks, valve seals, and resurfacing the deck surface. And then there are the options: aluminum heads, custom pistons and specialized ring packages, roller rocker arms, distributors, aluminum timing covers, aluminum valley covers, aluminum intakes whether they are single four barrel or multi-carb and of course, carburetors. Then there are the rest of the parts: a core block with crankshaft and rods, core cylinder heads, a usable and correct oil pan for the intended application, harmonic damper, timing cover, water pump, fuel pump, intake manifold, carburetor, distributor, wires, spark plugs, oil, and filter to name just a few. On my end I prefer all engines to be run in and tested so that any potential problems can be isolated and fixed before the engine leaves the shop. By breaking in the engine at the shop, errors made by the installer are essentially eliminated which makes for fewer returns and happier customers. Because I am running the engines in on a dyno, then all the parts to get the engine up and running must be here. That includes carburetor, distributor, water pump, spark plugs, wires, oil, oil filter, etc. This makes the initial cost for the engine leaving the shop more expensive but it’s simply money that’s being spent at the shop end rather than after the fact on the installer’s end just prior to putting the engine back into the car. This was the short version.
Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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You forgot to mention Balancing Ted, your specialty!
 55 Vicky & customline 58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100 59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?
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Ted, i thought the 317 engs had impressive figures, how did you get those cubes and also i,ve not heard of the blue thunder upgrades? thank you, regards bill.
 AussieBill YYYY Forever Y Block YYYY Down Under, Australia
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