Still putting my 312 back together for my  '57 Bird. Running the factory E dual quads. In the past I had totally blocked the heat passage with a thin piece of stainless steel. Plus side was that carbs did not boil over as much.  Down side was no choke but don't drive it much in cold weather and never was a problem. Debating on not blocking it and using the chokes. Any pros or cons to either option that I have not mentioned?

I like your previous approach of blocking the exhaust porting through the intake manifold under the carbs with a thin piece of stainless steel on each side.  As you indicated, your 'Bird teapots should run cooler.  As I remember, with the 'Bird 'E' set-ups, the spacers between the carbs and the intake manifold were 3/16 aluminum plate.  The spacers on the passenger car 'E' set-ups were 1/2 inch phenolic plastic.  I doubt that the aluminum plates even with their gasket sandwiches offered much heat insulation value.  Clearance for the 'Bird air cleaner housing under the hood was the determining consideration, I suspect. 

Also, with the exhaust gases going through that intake manifold porting, sooner or later the original steel choke heat tubes will be compromised by corrosion and have to be replaced.  That said, I THINK that CASCO is offering stainless steel replacement heat tubes for the '57 'E' manifold.

Is installing manual choke controls on both teapot carbs an option to consider, too?  Mechanically controlling both chokes with a single cable mechanism may be a headache, though.

I'm interested to know what seems to work out best for you on this, Slumlord...  


NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

Slumlord,

I don't know where you are, but in the Seattle area, I've always blocked the heat riser ports, and run a manual choke. Never had the dual quads, though. My F code motor has the choke milled off, and it takes a bit of playing with the throttle to warm it up. Then a bit of time before its driven. It seems to be a good compromise between immediate driving and warm performance. My cars have headers, so no butterfly valve in the exhaust manifold.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

Blocking off the crossover heat is a popular thing to do.. However, I recently read an article that indicated in some situations, such as in colder conditions, it is counter productive, as it can cause poor atomization of the fuel mixture. A good compromise on a Y-block may be to use Truck intake gaskets, as they have a reduced crossover opening.      


Paul

The same style as the truck - maybe the same - are available from CASCO et al. vendors for about 12 bucks.
The Thunderbird Restoration Manual suggests using them. They allow some heat in but not as much to help prevent excessive damage to the choke tube and to restrict burning the paint off of the intake.


Jim
Norfolk, VA

"MABLE"
1956 Thunderbird Green / Brown Interior (ZE-XG)

"MEAN GREEN"
1956 Mainline (FG-BE)

I haven't even used the choke in the past few year and haven't had any problems starting in the coldest weather Georgia has to offer.  Usually the teens is about as cold as it gets.  I think my ignition system has a lot to do with it because it became much less cold natured after that upgrade.  I do have to hold the throttle for a minute or two; it won't just start and idle in those conditions.  I'm thinking about removing the choke flapper so I can still use the fast idle function, but without actually choking it, and maybe gaining a bit at the drag strip without that bit of restriction.  
I've always run the restricted gaskets.
Regarding carb spacers, I experienced icing with the ECZ-B intake, with a 1 inch 4 hole aluminum spacer when the temperature got below about 40 degrees.  I switched to a 3/8 composite divided spacer, which fixed that problem.
I have experienced no icing issues with the blue thunder and 1/2" divided, I think wood, it looks like wood, anyway, spacer.
I never had an issue with the carb getting too hot, and here in Atlanta, with stop and go traffic, it has plenty of opportunity to get hot.

I know it's not 2-4 specific but maybe something of value is here.



Lawrenceville, GA

   I use the gaskets with the smaller holed metal block offs on my dual quad y-block. I also use the 1/4" thick fiber spacers (E-Bay) under the the 56 Merc styled WCFBs I use. I do run them progressive with the rear being the lead carb. The choke is only used on that carb and it took some fiddling to make the engine idle both cold and hot. I ended up only closing off that choke until the first step of the fast idle was on after moving the accelerator linkage when cold and it worked perfect. The front carb is also used for idle as suggested here on the site. One full pump on the gas pedal starts the car perfect when cold.
     Even with the lessor exhaust passing thru the manifold heat chamber there is enough to heat the spring in the choke heater to have it go off. I made sure it was drawing a vacuum also. I also covered the steel line with some insulation I bought from McMaster Carr and sealed the insulation with about 1/2" of heat shrink so it would not fray. I can photos if you like...
     Putting dual quads was the best I have done to my 56 Ford and I'm very happy with them. The car runs great, idles great, and looks great too. Good Luck

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

In running dual 2bbls on my flathead, I found that you only need a choke on one carb.  I don't know if this would translate to two 4bbls.
There is an electric choke conversion for the teapots.  Perhaps running an electric choke on one carb and no choke (disconnected if you want to preserve the dual choke look) on the other would be okay???

See the posting   56 Ford 4000 carburetor

54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

Thanks for the input. Need to look up the Merc spacers. Not original but may help the heat problem. I ran it that way since 1968 and the only problem was that you had let it warm up a bit in cold weather before taking off. Not really a problem. Looks like I haven't overlooked anything and will put the block offs back in if I can just find them. They are with everything I took off it somewhere in my garage.

    The carb spacer is for any small base carb and they do work. I had a fuel boiling problem before going to the restricted gaskets on a single 4 barrel manifold and the phenolic spacer remedied that problem. When I went to the dual quads I purchased an additional one. I coated the outside of it with a wide black felt tip pen to to make it a little less noticeable. The restricted gaskets also eliminated the paint burn on the cast iron manifold and there is no discolation on aluminum of any kind. You may not need the insulating spacers at all with that style of intake gaskets.
Personally I would always heat the intake if possible it makes for better atomization of the fuel a better fuel consumption. Racing no..Street yes.       Also if some amount choke is not needed on a cold engine anywhere in the country your carb is too rich. Even thou our engines are not "smog checked" a cleaner burn engine is not only better for the enviornment (IMO) but better for our engine oil, rings and valves. Good Luck.




56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.