Assuming a pretty basic overbored 292, you'll need to 0 the deck (mill the block) and remove about 11ccs from the heads, more depending on the heads you use, to get to 10:1 with flat tops.  It will require heavy milling, which means the intake will need to be milled as well.  Usually machine work for anything more than a cleanup cut costs more.  Machining for the intake will cost more. That extra money spent on milling may be better spent on domed pistons so that you can ensure the integrity of the head by leaving the deck thicker.

The cam should be good for a race car but a bit much for the average person in a street vehicle, per your most recent post - everyone is different, though and you may enjoy it.



Lawrenceville, GA

I may be a little late to the party but I just wanted to add that when I arrived at Bonneville in 2012 with my latest engine for the Uni and talked to a guy with a C-10 in my class running a 305 with a claimed 490hp on the dyno from a "professional sprint car engine builder" I thought this was going to be hard to beat. End result was my garage built Y-Block has ran 5 mph faster in top speed and the scruby got slower the next year. Still waiting to see what happens with the "new" Mummert heads. (ran loaner Mummert heads in 2013, CNC ported, the "new" ones are Joe Crane ported)
On the 1/8 and 1/4 mile tracks I run an engine put together with parts all sourced from ebay and swap meets, I may have $1500 and a lot of my own hours in it. This car weighs 1400 lbs, runs a vintage 3x2 intake with old rebuilt 94s and manages low 10s @ 130 mph.
I'm sure Rob is a good head guy but be carful with the "bigger is better" mentality, Sometimes it's not how much but where and how you cut.  There are guys here that have been working with Y heads for decades and know what to do, if your guy is an SBC expert he may or may not do a good job.  I think a lot of scruby guys curse Ys because they can't get the end results they want for doing it the scruby way. Just be careful is all I'm saying. BTW all my race engines have done best with the 113 castings (aluminum heads not included) so you are headed in the right direction.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Ha Ha! I just noticed if you type shivey (with a ch) the site automatically changes it to scrub. Nice work Jim. ;-)

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Cool! They are already the big valve heads! I'll just have him do the ports and set the springs up for the cam. Scored a Model-B pickup today!!

Thanks Tim! My cylinder head guy is The real thing. He works on anything. Look Rob Stidem up on youtube and you'll see some of his handiwork.

Welcome aboard, babor.  I'm glad that my fellow Forum members have been able to influence your thinking regarding the FoMoCo y-block.  I see y-blocks as underrated 'sleepers'.  Some here will be able to help you more than others because of your intended degree of modification, vehicle application, and intended use.  Everything I build is for the street and highway.

Comments: 
1)  Tim McMaster has attempted to carefully alert you to one of the idiosyncrasies of y-blocks.  Porting y-block cylinder heads inappropriately can yield negative results.  Of the various original FoMoCo heads made between '54 and '64, your 113 heads are EXCELLENT to be starting with for performance upgrading efforts.  Like Tim suggested, applying usual porting methodology to y-block heads can yield negative results.  I don't question your porter's expertise, but consider having him do some homework before just 'doing what he usually does' to other cylinder heads to your Ford 113 heads.
2)  A bonus of the engine block you have.  According to information provided by John Mummert, beginning in (?) April of 1959, FoMoCo increased the dept of the threaded holes in the main bearing cap webbing.  This production modification is speculated to have been the result of a frequency of cracks in the webbing of earlier blocks that were finding themselves being rebuilt by Ford or Ford authorized re-manufacturers.  Engine blocks with the casting numbers B9AE-6015 F were the first of the different production models through production year 1964 to benefit from this move to slightly longer main cap bolts for 292 EBU main caps and 312 ECZ main caps.
_________________
Some of us rebuilding earlier production series of y-blocks subscribe to drilling and tapping our blocks to this later FoMoCo adopted thread depth for our main bearing caps.  All 292 engine main bearing caps take a different length bolt than the 312 engine main bearing caps.  John Mummert offers ARP bolts and studs for retrofitting your block with replacement hardware for your ~55 year old block.
3.  5752-113 cylinder heads are 'posted'.  These have been reported to have been milled as much as .045 without trouble when rebuilding or modifying.  IF you reference the following article on Ted Eaton's web site, it may help you in determining how much you want to mill your 113 heads to accomplish the combustion chamber cc volume you desire.as you plan your build. 
See    http://www.eatonbalancing.com/blog/2013/01/30/cylinder-head-milling-for-a-1cc-reduction/
4.  The brand of cylinder head gaskets that you select for use on y-blocks can also affect the effective combustion chamber volume you're working with in calculating your static compression ratio.  The following article on Ted Eaton's web site may help you in knowing how much various manufacturers' available head gaskets add to the effective volume of your cylinder heads combustion chamber's cc volume.
See    http://www.eatonbalancing.com/blog/2012/06/30/head-gasket-volume-calculation/

Best wishes going forward.  I hope this helps you to begin digging into what makes this engine well worth your time and effort.  I believe that you'll find it a very rewarding build.       


NoShortcuts
a.k.a. Charlie Brown
near Syracuse, New York

That is AWESOME news! Thank you for your response! I think I will likely just do some cleanup work after reading this and researching a little. Probably just have him do the basic bowl blend and de-burr the ports and finish with a medium grit polish for atomization as well as setting up a spring set for the camshaft. I really need to find another transmission now as this will be a street/strip rig with a little more weight than a rail. Any cost efficient ideas???

Charlie, Babor, You can have the heads milled on the intake surfaces instead of having the intake milled, that way any intake will fit, can't remember the exact figure but I thinks its .64 or .54 of whatever the head surfaces are milled, maybe John or Ted knows this figure off the top of their heads.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

Cool! Thanks Billy! I was wondering about that because we are likely going to mill the heads but haven't completely decided yet as it could later wind up with a blower or twin turdblows. More than likely N/A or Blown though as I think I am going to run ZOOMIES! 

The first 0.030 that’s milled off of the heads will not require any milling to compensate for intake manifold fit assuming that composition head gaskets (recommended) are being used.  After 0.030” of head or deck mill, then mill the intake side of the head 1.4 times whatever is taken off of the deck surface of the heads after 0.030”.  For example, if the heads are being milled a total of 0.050”, then mill the intake side of the heads 0.028”.  Any milling of the decks also counts into all of this.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)