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Chuck (11/4/2014) I disagree on the valve size comment. I just took apart a set of -113's, and the valves I pulled out were 1.94's and 1.54's. That was the OEM valve size in ECZ's, -113's, and -471's. The -113's I'm reworking will end up with oversize valves - in this case, 2.02/1.60. Chuck. I get a 1.92” measurement on the stock intake valves for the G, 113, and 471 heads. Many replacement valves end up being 1.94” simply due to the scrub valves being used as replacements.
Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)
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I disagree on the valve size comment. I just took apart a set of -113's, and the valves I pulled out were 1.94's and 1.54's. That was the OEM valve size in ECZ's, -113's, and -471's. The -113's I'm reworking will end up with oversize valves - in this case, 2.02/1.60.
I looked for a set of finished iron heads recently. There was a set of "finished" ECZ's available near me for $900. Since I enjoy hand porting (it's relaxing, and I really get into studying port flow characteristics) I opted to do my own. In the case of these -113's, $2K sounds a tad steep, but markets for car parts vary by country. What's inexpensive in the US is gold-plated unobtanium in Japan, for example.
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Sorry, I didn't twig to the fact that they were in Australia. However, the valve sizes as quoted are not O.E..
Paul
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Other threads on the Forum have made the same point in discussing the cost of John Mummert's aluminum heads, CK. By the time you have a set of iron heads reworked with hard seats, guide liners, professional porting work, resurfacing, new valves, the valve and seat work done, new springs, one piece quality retainers, positive valve stem seals, spring heights adjusted, etc. it's pretty easy to reconcile yourself to purchasing a set of new aluminum heads from John and feeling good about it.
The same discussion has taken place regarding the practicality of redoing a set of used heavy duty '62-'64 FoMoCo C2AE connecting rods for a 239, 256, 272, or 292 build or a set of the heavy duty '61-'64 FoMoCo C1TE connecting rods for a 312 application. It's more realistic to look at purchasing a set of the PROBE connecting rods that John Mummert is offering for the two original stroke applications. No matter how good your reconditioning machining work and other efforts, the issue of connecting rod metal fatigue can haunt anyone who is assembling an all-out performance engine.
A set of John and Geoff's reworked y-block 'G' iron heads went on e-Bay earlier this year. Unfortunately, I cannot remember exactly what they went for. It was not 2K however. My recollection is that it was JUST over 1K.
NoShortcuts a.k.a. Charlie Brown near Syracuse, New York
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By what they cost to recondition I wouldn't part with them for less than 2K.
I assume only someone searching for classic Iron heads would be interested. This makes them worth as much as the Alloy heads for the right person?
Valves are orig. sizes.
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I think the question may be what are they worth to someone in Australia, CK. The shipping expense to anyone here in the states will be prohibitive.
NoShortcuts a.k.a. Charlie Brown near Syracuse, New York
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Those are somewhat oversize valves What were they O.E. for & did they need to be modified to fit? And are they regular or stainless? Do you have a Price in mind now?..
Paul
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Considering selling my 113's ? What are they worth? They are ported, hardened inserted with 1.94 and 1.54 valves, surfaced to 67cc, etc.
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