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On my 55 sedan I mounted the dryer by the condenser which the instructions said to do. The micro switch on the evaporator unit is actually a single pole push on switch which means once you get used to using the unit you will find the point where the ac pump clutch is disengaged due to the cam shape of the shaft which actuates the switch.
The only drama I had with the install is the mounting brackets supplied. I used a complete two belt setup and found it necessary to make my own spacers to get everything lined up and slotted one bracket to move everything forward. I managed to get hold of a twin sheave harmonic balancer. The brackets were great but the instructions to use them were nothing like what I ended up with.
Rick - West Australia
Do Y Blocks Downunder run upside down? Gravity Sucks!!
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Miker
Thanks for your experiences with Classic Air. While I didn't have any problems with the microswitch, I did install a rocker switch to shut off the AC compressor. Unfortunately, it also shuts off the electric fan, something I'll change in the future to get extra cooling in California's Central Valley.
I'll have to check the water valve now and replace it if it's leaking.
The vents are pretty cheap looking, I painted mine dash color which helps some. They kind of remind me of when Panteras came out and the vents looked like something out of a Comet.
The previous owner had installed a Delco alt. although poorly, so making a new bracket was already on my to do list, but was actually fairly easy.
The biggest problem I've had with the kit is probably peculiar to my 55. The reciever/dryer was too close to the headers so I had to move it and plan on moving it again, except this time I'll have to recharge the system. I got rid of the old heater fan and capped the tube at the fender.
The height of the vents is an issue as far as effectiveness, but what really bugs me is that on high, my keys start swinging around and hitting things.
I would like to see your vents, so I'll PM my e-mail.
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My experience with the Classic Auto Air perfect fit system for my 55 bird was ok. The system was complete, down to the odd connector and sheet metal screws. The replacement cables fit fine, and a couple had fine adjustments built in. If you download the installation manual, it appears pretty complete.
I ran into 2 problems, one of which I should have seen coming. When the wiring harness is installed on the under dash unit, it shows a connection to a micro switch (page 11 schematic). I had a problem making that connection, so I checked it with a multi meter for operation. The mistake I made is this switch needs to be actuated in two positions, a/c and defrost. I only got it working on defrost, and didn't realize it. When I spoke to them, the comment was "sometimes you have to fiddle with the switch a bit ". The instructions don't say that, and more importantly, don't advise you to check it at all. Just plug it in. Going in thru the glove box opening, and lowering the unit, I was able to unplug those wires, and mount them on a separate toggle switch. Otherwise, it was drain the water, remove the charge, and pull the whole unit out. I can now also run the compressor while on heat, giving me "dried" air. Not a bad deal in Seattle, and the heater overwhelms the AC at any temperatures I'll be driving.
Second problem is the water control valve. There's very specific instructions about which way the water flow goes. I had one of these in the car previously, and it never really shut off. This one doesn't either, and it's installed properly. The heater hoses always run hot, so there is always some flow thru the coil. This decreases the cooling on AC. It's ok on defrost, as you're getting dried air by passing it thru the heat and cool coil, and it's more than hot enough.
I helped a friend working on his car, a 56 Nomad, with the "deluxe" heater control valve. It needed replacement, was pretty pricey, but when it's off, it's off. The hoses stay cold, and there's no heat in the heater box. I'm sure there are others that work, but that one I had experience with. I suspect this is one reason the cooling is a bit lacking in really hot weather. My solution here (to avoid pulling the whole unit) was a 90 degree fitting at the intake manifold that had a shut off on it. In the summer when I know I won't need heat, I shut it off. Think 1949 MG, or an add on heater for a 32 ford.
The under dash vents are kind of "bottom on the line" if you go looking at other options. They work fine, but I didn't like the looks and replaced them with someone else's round units. If your running a GM alternator, the adaptor for that is just like the various other venders sell to convert the OEM generator bracket. I used a heater delete plate and vent cap from Casco, and made some cosmetic changes including bulkhead fittings on the heater hoses, but this didn't affect functioning.
I haven't written a tech article in years, so I'm sure there's some confusing parts. Feel free to ask questions. I've also got some pictures of the install, but don't know how to post them. If you want to see them, drop me a pm with an email and I'll send them on.
Part of the problem is many of us are used to modern factory units, with lots of vents up high, better interior insulation, etc. I and my friends have other brands in other cars, and none of them really work like a modern car. If you did a complete upgrade during the install, modern insulation, weatherstripping, etc., it would be better.
miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ
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