'59Edsel (6/25/2014)

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Took her out again today, still doing the same thing. If I really punch it she'll move past that dry spot and be fine after that. Seem to accelerate well while at speed. If I'm in reverse and going up an incline, the engine will do the same thing, scary thing there is after it moves past the bogging point, the engine will really let loose and then my driveshaft just bangs the differential into movement. I hear that loud clang of a driveshaft typical when you change from forward to reverse…almost feel like she'll burn out. Gotta be careful though, don't want to shatter my diff.

This kind of concerns me and makes me wonder if you don't have transmission problems - even if your engine is stuttering, coughing, missing, etc, your torque converter shouldn't be letting your driveshaft bang/clang your differential like you are driving a manual transmission car. Your earlier post about the transmission puking ATF while it is COLD and you are revving the engine sounds like the trouble might be there. Your engine/driveline only act that way (under 10 mph under acceleration right?) when you are under load? And it sounds like your engine is responding correctly when not under load and your revving the throttle in neutral or park...

What is the history of the transmission?



Daniel Jessup

Lancaster, California

aka "The Hot Rod Reverend"
check out the 1955 Ford Fairlane build at www.hotrodreverend.com

Here is a video with the vacuum advance disconnected:

I will do this and try to capture it on video.

Did you check the ignition timing curve with the vacuum advance disconnected?  It should be smooth and without any erratic movements as you bring the rpms up and down.  The timing should also return back to the same initial timing setting each time at idle also.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Vacuum advance I bought didn't fit, but it appears the old one is working ok. So it looks like we can rule out accelerator pump and timing. What else could it be?

I haven't checked the vacuum advance yet, but as a precaution I went ahead and ordered up a new one. The one on there is original and I can't imagine the rubber is any good..

I will do this! Thanks

If this is related to an ignition timing problem, then by using a timing light and observing the timing curve at the damper while running the rpms up and down may indicate a distributor that has erratic or sticking curve attributes.  I would check the timing curve with the vacuum advance both unplugged and hooked up and observe each.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Took her out again today, still doing the same thing. If I really punch it she'll move past that dry spot and be fine after that. Seem to accelerate well while at speed. If I'm in reverse and going up an incline, the engine will do the same thing, scary thing there is after it moves past the bogging point, the engine will really let loose and then my driveshaft just bangs the differential into movement. I hear that loud clang of a driveshaft typical when you change from forward to reverse…almost feel like she'll burn out. Gotta be careful though, don't want to shatter my diff.

Okay, and update for today...