I have been sending people to Dennis for a while now but I have also had a few problems with his NOS stuff lately. Not a bad problem just stuff marked/boxed wrong, it creates a hassle when you go to assemble something and find they have sent you the wrong part and it takes another week to get the right one. (I'm on the left side of the country)  In his defence, they have always replaced the part no questions asked. But it's the time thing.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

 

Beautiful car Dave,

The Y cam key is a little smaller than the chebbie crank key, I have found that you can file an offset key for the Y out of an SBC crank key.  It's not that hard. But remember, 4 degrees on the cam is 8 on the crank.

Even if they look OK I think you should install new Ex valves. There is a couple of guys on this site that can tell you about the regrets of installing used ones.  

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Thanks again, Tim.  I found Mr. Gasket keys on Amazon for just over two bucks each!  If they're a little big, I can take it down a bit.  Even if I get 3* I'm happy.

In my old Pontiac days, I used to install 6* keys, purchased from Royal Pontiac (dealership in Royal Oak, MI).  Being high school kids, we rarely ran our cars on the expressways, so having the torque curve at low-to-mid rpm was the cat's @$$.  (Especially on Woodward Ave.)

My Galaxie won't be taking too many long trips.  In fact, it only comes out for cruises.  Around town, it makes sense to have lots of low-end torque, especially for a heavy car.

My valves and guides are worn a little.  I'm on the fence.  To do my heads properly (all new springs, guides, valves, exhaust seats, and machine the towers for viton seals), will cost a fortune.  Again, they are marginally worn and I'm on the fence.  This isn't a race car, it's a cruiser.  So, I've decided to keep the guides, install hard ex seats, and grind all the valves and seats.  I am also machining guide towers for viton seals and installing new springs.  I thought of ARP rod bolts, but I nixed that because I don't believe they're worth over $60 ($3.75 EACH BOLT).  The old EBU bolts will do just fine.

It turns out, we had to bore the cylinders .060" which will bring my compression ratio over 9:1.  No block deck or head machining.  I'm real good with that, and I'm good with the 2-bbl it came with.  I don't need 750cu.ft. of air @ 660 ft above sea level (to cruise).

I'm contemplating moly rings, just because they last so much longer.  Most new cars come with moly rings, and they all get 150k miles (at least).  Down the road I'll install a Pertronix ignition.  - Dave

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected

The 5/16-18 tap ran down that aluminum rocker shaft stand like butter.  Now my rocker arm shafts have slots ground across the bottom oil holes, and the overflow tube holes are replaced with bolts.  I ground the threads off the ends of the bolts, so they go into the shafts for positive location.  I was careful not to leave metal chips in the rocker arm shafts, by blowing air through the oil inlet hole.

I fully expect my oil pressure will improve, and the rocker arms will squirt oil at 40-psi.  The pressure will keep them clear of varnish and residual dirt.

Head machining is expensive (but necessary).  Heads are the single most important and technical piece of the Y-Block.  They're done boring the block .060", now, it's a respectable 300-cubic inches.  The heads are being machined for hard exhaust seats, the guide towers (to accept viton seals), and all valves and seats are being ground.  New springs were $1.25/ea.

All sheet metal went out for chrome, yes, including rocker covers with the "FORD" emboss, valley cover, down tube, dipstick and tube, and other hardware (generator brackets, side cover, oil filler cap, etc).

I will paint the block black as soon as I get it (and the heads) back.  I can't wait to assemble this engine with moly rings, a real roller chain set, and Clevite-77 bearings.

Royal Oak, Michigan (Four miles north of Detroit, and 12 miles NORTH of Windsor, Canada).  That's right, we're north of Canada.

Ford 292 Y-Block major overhaul by simplyconnected