From the SA BSA Owners mag -
DERUSTING – THE EASY WAY by John Birrell
For members not using the electrolytic method of removing rust fromiron and steel parts, here’s the
information necessary to set up. This method was demonstrated at theFeb. Workshop Night.
You will need:-
A container large enough to suspend the rusty bit(s) without themtouching the sides or bottom.
A packet of Washing Soda from the supermarket
A 12 volt battery charger – 4 or 5 amps rating is plenty
Metal for the anode (the liner inside the plastic container)– zincflashing, stainless steel or plain
steel. Not necessary if you use a metal container. This does,however, require the parts to be hung
from an insulator, eg plastic pipe
Wire to hang the parts from a rod or pipe above the container. Theycan’t touch the anode or the
metal container.
Water straight from tap or tank.
Fill the container with sufficient
water to cover the parts. Add
Washing Soda at the rate of about
a handful per 10 litres of water. It’s
not at all critical.
Connect the POSITIVE (Red)
charger lead to the anode or direct
to the metal container. Connect the
NEGATIVE (Black) charger lead
to the wire(s) holding up the parts.
The above is critical! Note that the
hanging wire(s) must make good
electrical contact with the parts, or
nothing will happen. Turn on
power.
Leave for 24 hours or more (It
doesn’t matter how long you leave
the parts in – onlythe rust will be removed, not the parent metal)
The parts will come out with a black slimy coating which
comes off easily with a pressure cleaner for large bits, or
under a tap with a wire brush for small ones.
It pays to dry and prime paint the parts as soon as possible –
they come out so clean that surface rust will immediately
start if left damp.
SAFETY – Even though it is only 12volts, you are working
around water. Only switch on after all is in place, and
remember to switch off before taking parts out.
The following is very important:- Theprocess gives off
hydrogen gas as the water is slowly consumed. Make sure
that your set up is in a well ventilated space and avoid using
angle grinders in close proximity. The frothy bubbles on the surfacedo explode when grinding
sparks reach them. Learned from experience!!
It is easy to scale this process up to suit large parts. I havesuccessfully treated telephone poles by
building a dam from timber sides lined with Forticon plastic, andusing a larger power supply to get
more current. Once you have used thismethod you won’t want to know about molasses baths!