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rust remove

Posted By pegleg 10 Years Ago
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pegleg
Question Posted 10 Years Ago
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Can anybody tell me how to find the discussions on rust removal from nuts and bolts. I cannot get the search feature to do much.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 


miker
Posted 10 Years Ago
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Frank, I'm assuming your cleaning them not removing. Glr had a post on loosening last week.

I haven't tried this, but it's worth a look. You buy the molasses at the feed store as it's cheaper. I've got a little tumbler from Eastwood I've used. Course medium for rust, fine for polish. In most cases, the grease and paint should be stripped first.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/general-archive/rust-removal-using-molasses-90452/

miker
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Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ
ian57tbird
Posted 10 Years Ago
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I see there's a use for all those lemons on my tree now.
The Master Cylinder
Posted 10 Years Ago
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Frank, was it this thread about ultrasonic cleaners and later in the thread about electrolysis http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic80891-1.aspx

http://www.y-blocksforever.com/forums/Uploads/Images/af13a279-385d-4926-92f2-349a.jpg"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL Smooooth

MoonShadow
Posted 10 Years Ago
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That's the one. I looked for it too. Chuck


Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire
pegleg
Posted 10 Years Ago
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Thank you gentlemen. I think I'll try the electrolysis/ Arm and hammer thing first. I'm restoring a '74 Triumph TR6. It's British so even the wood rusts. I have a bunch of original fastners that need de rusted. I could probably buy another car for what replacing them all would cost.

Frank/Rebop

Bristol, In ( by Elkhart) 


paul2748
Posted 10 Years Ago
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I use a wire wheel on a bench grinder


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

lyonroad
Posted 10 Years Ago
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In Canada we have a product called CLR.  Its a general cleaner that removes rust.  I mix it 50/50 with water and let the part soak for 1 or 2 days depending on the amount of rust.  After this a wire brush just cleans off the rust.  There are less expensive generic products that look and smell the same and they work too.


Mark

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1955 Ford Fairlane Club Sedan
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slick56
Posted 10 Years Ago
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From the SA BSA Owners mag -

DERUSTING – THE EASY WAY by John Birrell

For members not using the electrolytic method of removing rust fromiron and steel parts, here’s the

information necessary to set up. This method was demonstrated at theFeb. Workshop Night.

You will need:-

A container large enough to suspend the rusty bit(s) without themtouching the sides or bottom.

A packet of Washing Soda from the supermarket

A 12 volt battery charger – 4 or 5 amps rating is plenty

Metal for the anode (the liner inside the plastic container)– zincflashing, stainless steel or plain

steel. Not necessary if you use a metal container. This does,however, require the parts to be hung

from an insulator, eg plastic pipe

Wire to hang the parts from a rod or pipe above the container. Theycan’t touch the anode or the

metal container.

Water straight from tap or tank.

Fill the container with sufficient

water to cover the parts. Add

Washing Soda at the rate of about

a handful per 10 litres of water. It’s

not at all critical.

Connect the POSITIVE (Red)

charger lead to the anode or direct

to the metal container. Connect the

NEGATIVE (Black) charger lead

to the wire(s) holding up the parts.

The above is critical! Note that the

hanging wire(s) must make good

electrical contact with the parts, or

nothing will happen. Turn on

power.

Leave for 24 hours or more (It

doesn’t matter how long you leave

the parts in – onlythe rust will be removed, not the parent metal)

The parts will come out with a black slimy coating which

comes off easily with a pressure cleaner for large bits, or

under a tap with a wire brush for small ones.

It pays to dry and prime paint the parts as soon as possible –

they come out so clean that surface rust will immediately

start if left damp.

SAFETY – Even though it is only 12volts, you are working

around water. Only switch on after all is in place, and

remember to switch off before taking parts out.

The following is very important:- Theprocess gives off

hydrogen gas as the water is slowly consumed. Make sure

that your set up is in a well ventilated space and avoid using

angle grinders in close proximity. The frothy bubbles on the surfacedo explode when grinding

sparks reach them. Learned from experience!!

It is easy to scale this process up to suit large parts. I havesuccessfully treated telephone poles by

building a dam from timber sides lined with Forticon plastic, andusing a larger power supply to get

more current. Once you have used thismethod you won’t want to know about molasses baths!




South Australia




texasmark1
Posted 10 Years Ago
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I soak mine in the cheapest vinegar I can find at my local grocery store.  let them sit a couple of days, take them out and rinse with water, let them dry.  A black-ish finish appears, then you hit them with the wire wheel. Takes the rust off, leaving clean parts to then prime and paint.  If they are very rusty, after you use the wire wheel, there may be some pitting but the rust should grind off.

Low budget to be sure, but it works well for parts up to a size that you can find a container to put the vinegar in.  I did some nuts and bolts just today for Daniel's Mercury.  Also did the heater motor cover.  It was really rusty but most of it came off.

Mark


"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX


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