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By slumlord444 - 3 Years Ago
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My block has been drilled and tapped for the longer ARP main bolts. I am using the Canton 351 stud kit to mount the windage tray. The threads on the studs are the same length as the factory 312 main bolts which is shorter than the current ARP bolts so they won't go all the way in the block. Will this be a problem? I considered threading the studs further to get the studs all the way into the block but am concerned if it will weaken the stud if I can even cut the threads with my die set. If I can't add threads I may need an additional washer on the stud nut tightens down properly or a thicker washer which shouldn't be a problem.
Canton recommends using loc tight on the studs in the block. They don't say which loc tight so I am thinking blue incase I ever want to pull the studs later on.. My last question is the torque specifications for the nuts on the studs. Are they different than for the ARP bolts and if so what torque should I use? Never used studs, always used bolts so not familiar. Canton says use 30 wt oil on the threads.
I'm also curious as to what kind of horsepower increase to expect. I see anywhere from a 5 to 20 horse increase is possible with a windage tray but I'm thinking more like 5 to 10 horsepower.
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By 55blacktie - 3 Years Ago
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I would contact ARP and ask what they think about your adding threads to their studs, but I don't think you'll like their answer. However, they might suggest/recommend a better option. Using studs that are shorter than the ARP bolts defeats the purpose of drilling the holes deeper. It's also possible that the block will have to align honed/bored if you substitute studs for bolts.
Just my two cents, but I think your engine will have to produce 400+ hp for you to gain as much as 20 hp by installing the windage tray, and that will only be realized at/near redline.
How do you intend to use the engine, and in what vehicle?
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By one piece at a time - 3 Years Ago
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This subject has been addressed previously on this site. Do a search and your questions will probably be answered. Go to google and search “ Y-Block windage tray”
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By charliemccraney - 3 Years Ago
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The studs do not need to thread into the full depth of the block. The studs will be engineered with adequate thread length to do the job. The key is to have adequate engagement of threads in the block and full engagement of the nut. Guidelines on thread depth can be found here: http://www.ford-y-block.com/assemblyerrors.htm
Contact Canton but I think a thread that size would use red loctite. You have to apply heat, to soften the loctite for future removal
Also contact Canton about the torque spec. Always use the manufacturers specification and instructions as it can vary from one manufacturer to another and even from one product line to another within the same manufacturer.
I used the windage studs out of a set of ARP main studs for small block Mopar, 318, 340, etc. They are a little longer than necessary, through the main cap but just barely short enough that they do work in 292 and smaller engines. 312 will probably be fine.
Here's a link to a previous thread on the subject of windage tray installation.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic149206.aspx
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By slumlord444 - 3 Years Ago
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I have the previous thread on the windage tray. Engine is a street/strip engine. Should be somewhere around 400-430 horsepower around 6500 RPM so the tray should help some. Canton gave me torque specs for the studs in the 351 Windsor they were originally for. I need to compare this with the factory specs and the specs for the ARP bolts and come up with something that makes sense. I will probably make some adjustments when I get the pan off and see how it all goes together.
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By charliemccraney - 3 Years Ago
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The spec they gave you will be for the studs, not a specific engine. Use what they say.
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By Joe-JDC - 3 Years Ago
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First, studs do not have to be torqued down, they only need to be hand tight. Most instructions tell you to run them down and then back them off a quarter turn. The clamping force comes from the fine threads of the nuts, and that lessens the actual torque number needed to retain the same clamping force as a regular bolt thread. No loctite needed. Use the torque value supplied by Canton for the 351W studs. We torqued the nuts on the windage tray to ~50# IIRC. There will be some trimming needed to mount the tray, and the bolt holes will need to be widened for the spacing on the Y mains. I have the Canton tray on two Ys , and I will be putting one on my 312 when it goes back together. Joe-JDC
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By slumlord444 - 3 Years Ago
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Thank you Joe. Thats exactly the info I needed to verify exactly what I need to do to get this right. The older I get the more I tend to double check things. Now I just have to get in the right frame of mind to jack the car up and pull the pan. Question Joe, what headers are you running?
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By Joe-JDC - 3 Years Ago
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FPA Thunderbird headers in '55 Thunderbird. They were 35 hp and 35 lbft torque better than the ported Thunderbird exhaust manifolds on our dyno testing. Joe-JDC
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By 55blacktie - 3 Years Ago
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Joe, are those numbers for your stroker? What about on a .050 over 292?
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By Joe-JDC - 3 Years Ago
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I think you can still search Ted's archives for his dyno testing on a 312 and see the differences the different exhaust manifolds and headers made on that engine. I would think 15 hp would be a minimum increase on a fairly stock engine with good exhaust system. Joe-JDC
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By miker - 3 Years Ago
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Here’s the link I have to the exhaust test. The FPA’s are several pages in.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic55379.aspx
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By slumlord444 - 3 Years Ago
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I have the FPA headers on order. Looking at July delivery and I ordered them last week.
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