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By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
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While working on my water pump (292) I notice that my damper is very close to the front engine mount. I don't see any clearance or daylight between them. I can't slip a feeler gage between the two. I'm sure there must be some clearance but I don't see it. What am I missing? Thanks.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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Where are you measuring? Here is a photo of the damper and front mount on my 55 TBird.
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By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
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I am measuring right where your black damper is almost against the red mount. I looks close just like mine.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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On my motor there is a good 1/2 clearance between the front mount and the damper.
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By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
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my 55 bird looks nothing like your 2nd photo. it looks exactly like the1st photo. I can see a big difference in your photos. is the damper pressed on a rubber bushing or is it solid.
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By NoShortcuts - 5 Years Ago
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55charliebird. The crankshaft vibration damper on your 'Bird is a 'Bird only application. The black 'donut' is rubber mounted by design. With time, engine heat, 'Bird under-hood operating temperature, the rubber mount that secures the 'donut' deteriorates. It's common for the donut to move away from the pulley and eventually rub against the lower portion of the 'Bird front engine mount that is secured to the timing chain cover.
As I recall, there are three companies who offer repair of the damper assembly that involves remounting the donut using a vulcanizing process. Two companies regularly advertise in Hemming's Magazine and one was identified within the last year here on the Forum.
Someone on our Forum will be able to recommend one or more of the three vendors based upon their experience.
Hope this helps. 
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By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
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That is what I have expected. The steel donut must have separated from the rubber insert. Well, while I have the water pump off, I might as well pull the pulley/damper off.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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I have used Damper Doctor quite a few times in the past with good results. Here's a link to his website. https://www.damperdoctor.com/
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By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
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PHIL, COULD IT BE THAT THE 4 BOLTS HOLDING THE ENGINE IN THE MOUNT HAVE ALLOWED THE ENGINE TO SLIP DOWN SO THAT THE DAMPER HAS COME TO REST ON THE "BUMP" IN THE MOUNT BRACKET. IM SURE THE BOLT HOLES IN THE MOUNT HAVE SOME SLOP IN THE FIT. CAN I LOOSEN THE BOLTS AND RAISE SLIGHTLY THE ENGINE? THE DAMPER DOES NOT LOOK LIKE IT IS COMPROMISED OR SEPERATED.
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By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
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I'm not Phil, but I doubt that there is that much travel in the mount holes. I had the same problem with a Bird 312. Unfortunately, to fix it it has to come off and get repaired. If it's not hitting now, maybe you get away with it that way for a while.
55charliebird (2/28/2019)
PHIL, COULD IT BE THAT THE 4 BOLTS HOLDING THE ENGINE IN THE MOUNT HAVE ALLOWED THE ENGINE TO SLIP DOWN SO THAT THE DAMPER HAS COME TO REST ON THE "BUMP" IN THE MOUNT BRACKET. IM SURE THE BOLT HOLES IN THE MOUNT HAVE SOME SLOP IN THE FIT. CAN I LOOSEN THE BOLTS AND RAISE SLIGHTLY THE ENGINE? THE DAMPER DOES NOT LOOK LIKE IT IS COMPROMISED OR SEPERATED.
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By Ted - 5 Years Ago
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55charliebird (2/27/2019)
While working on my water pump (292) I notice that my damper is very close to the front engine mount. I don't see any clearance or daylight between them. I can't slip a feeler gage between the two. I'm sure there must be some clearance but I don't see it. What am I missing? Thanks.
While a picture showing a side shot of your damper would be helpful, there’s a strong probability that the elastometer mounted ring on your damper has slipped backwards. I suspect you should see at the area in front of that ring where the damper hub is unpainted and/or cleaner than the rest of the damper denoting where that damper ring originally resided before it slipped backwards.
My choice for damper rebuilding is Damper Dudes. Hate to talk bad about any vendor but I used Damper Doctor for years but have recently had repeated issues with their rebuilt dampers which forced a switch to another damper rebuilder.
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By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
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I cant get a .003 feeler gage between the damper and the mount. So i'll have to pull it. Thanks
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By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
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I haven't figured out how to post a photo. How do I do it. I have cameras and smart phone.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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I agree with Ted. Sounds to me like your damper needs work. There is practically no slop in my front mount holes.
To post a photo. Hover over the "+ Insert" button at the bottom of the edit screen. Click on the photo icon where it says "Insert Image". Click "Browse" and navigate to your photo.
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By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
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THE PULLEY IS TOUCHING THE MOUNT SO ITS GOTTA COME OFF. ONE MORE QUESTION "IS THE BOLT THAT HOLDS THE DAMPER PULLEY, A RH (NORMAL) OR A LH THREAD. IE, CLOCKWISE OR COUNTER-CLOCKWISE, TO TAKE IT OUT.
THANKS.
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By Ted - 5 Years Ago
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The harmonic damper bolt head is 13/16” and the threads are a normal right hand thread. Nothing unusual about removing the bolt except it’s typically on tight. Removing the Thunderbird damper does require a special puller to avoid damaging the damper. A homemade tool for removing the damper can be made to work. Here’s are some links showing some damper pulling options.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost141265.aspx
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost50258.aspx
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By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
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THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THE HELP, IM GOING TO ORDER THE PULLER AND THE INSTALL TOOL FROM CASCO, THEN I'LL FIGURE OUT WHAT TO DO WITH THE DAMPER PULLEY. THANKS AGAIN.
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