OK we'll see if this works......

There is a piece of steel bar that gets fed through the holes in the sides of the damper - long enough to fit across.

It has a hole in it that allows the hardened "pusher rod" - threaded bar - of a puller assembly to pass through.

It has a nut that fits the pusher bar, tack welded to the cross piece.

Tightening the pusher rod against the end of the crank (while protecting it from damage) will jack the dampener out and off the snout.  

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

Steve:

How do you get the bar through the damper slots with a nut welded to it?  On my puller, I tapped the through hole for the pusher screw.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Dunno - I was at work when I made the sketch - now I'm at the hacienda....found the coffee cans where the puller parts are stored and - (1) the bar is bent and (2) the nut broken off - but it isn't a tapped hole. Must have fished the nut in behind the bar and jammed it on the weld scar(?)

I'm reasonably sure the bar is the one I used - and found a hardened 2H nut that matches the pusher bolt - but it doesn't seem to have a weld scar(???). I have slept numerous times since then and drank a bit - so who knows?

 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona

The universal damper removal tools will not work on the Thunderbird dampers.  Here’s a pic of the tool I made several years ago specific to removing the T-Bird dampers before having a Ford service tool donated to the cause that also works for this purpose.

 

 

And here’s a pic of the Ford service tool mentioned above.  Whether this tool is specific for this purpose or is adapted I can’t say but works well for the ‘Bird damper pulling.

 

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)