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By DSmoke - 9 Years Ago
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Hello all, new here, new to Y block, and to classic cars. I made an intro past a few days ago. I have read and researched and come looking for your expert advice. I have a 56 Country Sedan that as I was told had a 312 (with a Novi AC unit) installed in the car in the 70's. The car is a one owner and so far everything that I was told has checked out. The motor was a oily greasy mess so today I sprayed a little degreaser on it. I would like to do some maintenance to it like new spark plugs and a oil change as I have no idea when any of this was done. So here I am looking for your expert advice.
1. What motor do I have, the block code is EDB 6015 E, located above oil filter on drivers side
2. The exhaust manifolds are ECH 9431A
3. What maintenance would you do if this was your car. The car runs good, just want to be proactive at this point to keep it running before a rebuild.
4. Where can I find more info on the carb and the choke setup.
Thanks for any and all replies!
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By charliemccraney - 9 Years Ago
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1. EDB-E is most likely a 292 but could be a 312. At this point in time, what is installed on the engine has little meaning as far as identifying it goes because any number of parts could have been swapped. You'll find out which one it is when you tear it down for rebuild. For the time being, it really doesn't matter what it is.
3. I'd change all fluids and do a tune up.
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By Rono - 9 Years Ago
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DSmoke;
I agree with Charlie, but here are a couple more things to consider; Look at your data plate on the Driver's side door jam. If the VIN starts with a "P", then you can assume your wagon at least started it's life with a 312 installed at the factory. If you are planning on driving it much before your tear down, it might be a good idea to check the brake shoes by pulling the drums off. This will also tell you if any wheel cylinders are leaking. With the stock master cylinder it only takes 1 wheel cylinder to fail which will leave you with no brakes! The new Ford Y Block rebuild book will also give you good info on your carb and other aspects of the motor.
Rono
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By NoShortcuts - 9 Years Ago
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DSmoke. EDB 6015-E engine block is listed as '58- April '59 292 Ford passenger car or truck AND '58- April '59 312 Mercs on John Mummert's web site. Search Ford Y-Block.com
Here's John Mummert's listing of y-block engine codes from his web page address
http://www.ford-y-block.com/Block%20identification.htm
As Charlie indicated, over time parts get moved around. It's always been cheaper to swap engines than to rebuild them. Good used engines have long been sought in salvage yards from wrecks as donors.
Rono's suggestion is a good one. Consider purchasing the book from Morris. It's available from Amazon, Barnes & Noble book stores, or from other Internet sites.
https://play.google.com/store/books/details?id=I7emAgAAQBAJ&source=productsearch&utm_source=HA_Desktop_US&utm_medium=SEM&utm_campaign=PLA&pcampaignid=MKTAD0930BO1&gl=US&gclid=CNGlnqiG7c4CFQsENwodnBUMvQ&gclsrc=ds
Hope this helps. 
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By DSmoke - 9 Years Ago
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I will find that book and order ASAP, thank you! The VIN starts with M, so 292 right? The first thing I did were the brakes, got them working better, might have one leaking, monitoring that now. We will just be using the wagon for the occasional drive around the neighbor hood and small trips. The wagon is replacing motorcycles for our family, so we use it for fun.
I am trying to figure out what oil filter to buy and where, and what spark plugs and what the gap should be. I have a 56 Ford Car service manual but that only shows a 272 and 312, and mine doesn't match either. Because I'm not sure what it is I don't know where to start. Was planning on 5 quarts of an oil with good zinc content. Sorry for the newbie questions, after years of working on motorcycles, this although close in theory, seems so different and frustrating at the moment. The goal is to keep it a running project car for the family to enjoy for now. I want to make sure I did the basics so I can continue to enjoy the car while I learn more about what I have and develop a plan for the build. So, I truly appreciate all the the help and advice.
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By miker - 9 Years Ago
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I agree with everything above. The only thing I might add is to pull the valve covers and make sure there's oil up above, and check the amount of sludge up there. That might impact how often you do oil changes in the future. If it sounds and runs good, it's probably fine, but it's nice to know.
Having owned motors I wanted to do a quick clean up and paint on, I'll pass along a tip from a dealer I knew. Cheap Wally World tin foil is the quickest and best way to mask off areas for a little rattle can paint. Way better than tape and paper. From the looks of your bike, maybe you haven't had to resort to that.
Nice ride, and welcome to the site.
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By slumlord444 - 9 Years Ago
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I would also adjust the valves. For motor oil Valvoline Racing oil is recommended. If it has the original oil filter it is a cartridge that goes in the housing. It may have been converted to a spin on filter, which is easier to change.
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By DSmoke - 9 Years Ago
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It looks like the original can type filter, can that be cleaned or do I need to order one. I believe this would be the right one:
http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_mercury_late/oil-filter-canister-type-motorcraft-brand-with-seal-4-3-4-x-4-ford-and-mercury-239-ohv-272-292-312-v8-401285.html
Spark plugs, should I use Autolite 45 or 46?
I downloaded the book and started reading through it, I can tell that will be a great resource!
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By charliemccraney - 9 Years Ago
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That filter should be available through a local auto parts store.
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By 57RancheroJim - 9 Years Ago
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Don't try to clean the old filter, buy the new one,. Autolite 45 will be fine, gap at .035. A new air filter may be helpful too.
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By DSmoke - 9 Years Ago
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57RancheroJim (9/1/2016)
Don't try to clean the old filter, buy the new one,. Autolite 45 will be fine, gap at .035. A new air filter may be helpful too.
Thanks for mentioning that, I was thinking of getting a new air filter, the oil bath is quite messy. I was going to research that here tonight. Is there a preference among the group for the air filter?
I really appreciate all the prompt replies and help!
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By 57RancheroJim - 9 Years Ago
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Oil bath is a good filter in my opinion. It can be washed out with a solvent of your choice, a little fresh oil and you are good to go. Messy comes with the territory.
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By paul2748 - 9 Years Ago
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The carb is a Holley 4000, commonly known as a teapot. It's good carb but needs someone who really knows them to overhaul.
The air filter is probably a oil bath (Ford changed to paper filters in 1957). Service instructions should be in the shop manual.
I am not familiar with the sedan chokes, but I assume it's an automatic choke. Again, instructions on these should be in the shop manual.
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By NoShortcuts - 9 Years Ago
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DSmoke. I recommend your acquiring a '56 Ford Shop Repair Manual. Amazon and eBay are two Internet sources for these. In addition to original copies, there may be reprints available as well. While CDs are available, I'm old-school and prefer a hard copy to dig through. Prices are all over the place on such things. Click the link below to see one currently advertised on eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1956-FORD-CAR-SHOP-REPAIR-MANUAL-ORIGINAL-/311673196780?hash=item48912b90ec:g:OhUAAOSwnDZUFNTX&vxp=mtr
IMPORTANT: The '56 Ford service manual lists the 312 engine's main cap torque spec as 120-130 ft. lbs. This is WRONG. Don't use that figure. Use the 292 engine torque spec of 95-105.
Tim McMaster's torque chart is helpful as is his web site. Click the link below.
http://yblockguy.com/techtips/yblocktorquetable.html
Hope this helps.
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By DSmoke - 9 Years Ago
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Thanks NoShortcuts, the first thing I did was buy a shop manual and I just made the change regarding the torque spec in it, and I bookmarked the site above. I'm like you and prefer the hard copy I can take in the garage with me and get dirty, plus it's so much easier to bounce around to different pages. I have a few house projects to do then I am going to take care of the minor motor service. I'm pretty sure the rear main seal is leaking so a rebuild in inevitable, but I don't have the time or garage space for that now.
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By NoShortcuts - 9 Years Ago
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DSmoke. I think you'll find the Ford Shop Repair Manual to be invaluable.
The Y-Blocks Forever Forum Archive of previous threads on different topics is amazing. While the Ford Shop Manual is excellent, sometimes additional or updated information from the school of hard knocks can help greatly.
One of the things pointed out numerous times is that there are other things to check in the rear areas of a y-block that may be the source of an oil leak other than the rear seal. Too, if it is the rear seal, there are some things to pay attention to that were not covered in enough detail in the period Ford publication.
Clicking the link below for a look back on others shared information on rear seal undertakings. As you read through the thread I've pointed you to, consider reading the links that others have posted to be read. -Be sure to read the entire page that opens for you, not just my contribution.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic114021.aspx#bm114031
Hope this helps.
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By DSmoke - 9 Years Ago
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Great help, thanks again. I also ordered a hard copy of the Y block book. It's awesome to have an active forum with knowledgeable members dedicated to Y block!
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By Park Olson - 9 Years Ago
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There is also a filter screen in the breather can near the fuel pump.
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