Mummert Ram Horn Exhaust Install/Bolts


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By Outlaw56 - 10 Years Ago
I'm installing a pair of Johns Ram Horns on a 272 B-Block. The previous owner/s replaced some of the stock bolts with whatever they had laying around. When installing these manifolds, is there one length of bolt that should fit both sides at each locations the manifolds mount to the head? Grade 5 or 8?
By paul2748 - 10 Years Ago
YBLock heads use the same length bolt in all the bolt holes for the exhaust manifold. Grade 8 is overkill, grade 5 should be all you need.
By Outlaw56 - 10 Years Ago
Can you confirm the correct length Paul?
By stuey - 10 Years Ago
I'm installing a pair of Johns ram horn manifolds and i purchased a set of reduced head 12 pt ARP bolts from AlloyBoltz but at 1" long they fell short. Johns manifolds are plenty thick at the flange. I've since purchased normal head size bolts at 1.5", i like to use a header gasket and plain washer plus a spring washer which affects the length required. May be overkill but that's the way I work.stuey
UK (for the time being)
By NoShortcuts - 10 Years Ago

You may have missed this information in previous threads, Stuey. The subject has come-up numerous times, but this is one of the more recent replies from Ted.


Ted Eaton wrote on 12/19/2013


The problem is not so much the heads and/or the gaskets but in the use of cast iron exhaust manifolds. Using gaskets in conjunction with the cast iron manifolds does speed up the frequency of broken or cracked manifolds. A thin film of hi-temp RTV in lieu of using any form of exhaust gasket seems to prolong the life of the manifolds.


With the exhaust manifolds being machined flat at the head mounting surface, then a thin film of RTV should suffice. For the same reasons the manifolds break when using gaskets with the iron heads, the manifolds will also break or crack when using them on aluminum heads with gaskets. Keep in mind that the exhaust manifolds for many of the as-delivered Ford engines did not use any form of exhaust gasket at the heads and simply relied on a good metal to metal fitment.


Again, this subject appears in multiple threads in the Forum 'SEARCH' archive. The message is consistent, gaskets used with cast iron exhaust manifolds result in heat transfer problems that invite breaks at the exhaust manifold to cylinder head attachment points.


Hope this helps. Smile

By Y block Billy - 10 Years Ago
I recently, (last summer, if you call that recent) installed a set of Johns Ramhorns on a customers truck and if I remember correctly the there were 2 different length bolts required and to use a conventional head fastener I had to whittle out a few places on the manifolds with a die grinder to get a socket on the fasteners.
By charliemccraney - 10 Years Ago
Stock rams horns do use 2 different lengths. Based on the pictures, it look like John's do, too.
By John Mummert - 10 Years Ago
The manifolds should take (4) 1-1/2" and (3) 2" bolts per side
By vntgtrk - 10 Years Ago
I have the Speedway version. I used the bolts (and gaskets) that came with the kit. IIRC all bolts are the same length. The breakage issue is news to me. The rebuild kit had exh manifold gaskets as well. Could it be over torqueing is part of the cause? It's only like 25 ft/lb. required.

Oh and BTW, I'm really surprised nobody here has mentioned a modified 9/16 socket. I have one I shortened back in my SBF days. It came in handy when torqueing the center bolts on these ram horns and it got used for combo manifold install on both my 223 and 240/300 sixes.

Use in conjunction with a wobbler extension or a U joint.
By stuey - 10 Years Ago
I've just been out to measure the manifolds flanges. the two outside and the centre are 3/4" the other four are 1" thick. aaaargh!Angry up until now I'd only hung the manifold on the two outside bolts now I need 8 longer bolts. For comparison I have an EDB 9431 B the flanges measure 3/8" except the slotted end which is 1/2". Ain't no wonder they crack at 3/8". I'll use the composite gasket that John supplied to reduce dissimilar metal corrosion on the ally heads and risk a cracked manifold. The heads are worth more than the manifolds and at 3/4" thick the risk of cracks must be reduced. John, why two different thickness's ?The socket access is no problem using the small head ARP bolts and a 3/8 drive 3/8 socket.
stuey
By NoShortcuts - 10 Years Ago

Hmmmm… Interesting point regarding corrosion of the aluminum heads, Stuey.


Regarding cast iron, don’t let the thickness of a cast iron section mislead you. Cast iron is brittle and uneven heating causes uneven expansion resulting in cracking. OUCH!


While composite gaskets may be supplied with the exhaust manifolds, consider an alternative for eliminating the potential corrosion issue resulting from the dissimilar metals being in contact.


Suggestion… apply a smear of Never-Seez to the exhaust manifold flange surfaces instead of RTV gasket sealer. In my experience, the Never-Seez has seemed to seal the joining surfaces.


Regards,

By Outlaw56 - 10 Years Ago
Stuey, what is a small head ARP bolt? Anyone have any opinion on the round headed bolts with the hex head in the center? Is anti seize on exhaust manifold bolt threads a bad idea because of the heat?
By vntgtrk - 10 Years Ago
Re: gaskets. I shouldn't doubt the experts here, but the A&P mechanic in me made me check the book. It says to "coat the mating surfaces with graphite grease." If high temp RTV is what you guys recommend, well, them exhaust manifold gaskets are going in the feces can.



Now where did I put that high temp..................
By Outlaw56 - 10 Years Ago
I would never have guessed never seize would have formed a gasket. I was wondering about using it on exhaust manifold bolts as well. Knowing the way it stays in the threads and how it never seems to become "stable" I would have assumed it would just make a gooey mess. If it worked for you its probably worth a try.
By NoShortcuts - 10 Years Ago
Outlaw56 (3/18/2014)
I would never have guessed never seize would have formed a gasket. I was wondering about using it on exhaust manifold bolts as well.


Never-Seez won’t form a gasket in the true sense of the word, Darrell. It will fill S-M-A-L-L gaps. The exhaust manifold flange surfaces need to be basically true. As you indicated, it never really hardens,but in my experience does become more paste-like over time due to heat exposure drying out the liquid ‘carrier’.


I use a prudent amount of Never-Seez on exhaust manifold to cylinder head mounting bolts. I use a more generous amount of Never-Seez on the exhaust manifold stud threads that secure the exhaust head pipe to the manifold. While Ford used brass nuts in production assembly for securing the head pipes to the exhaust manifolds to try to make them easier to remove when necessary, when the steel studs rust and become corroded as they do with time, the brass nuts are still miserable to remove if Never-Seez wasn’t used during the exhaust pipe installation.


With JM’s aluminum heads, I recall Ted writing a caution regarding using Never-Seez on spark plug threads. My take-away understanding from the posting was, ‘Coat the spark plug thread surface; DON’T fill the threads. Excess Never-Seez can ‘crystallize’ or cake-up (my words) on the end of the plug exposed in the combustion chamber and make removal of the plug difficult’.

______________________

A friend uses Molybdenum disulfide grease instead of Never-Seez when mounting cast iron exhaust manifolds on y-blocks. Molybdenum disulfide is silvery-black in appearance. In both looks and feel, Molybdenum disulfide is similar to graphite.


At one time, Molybdenum disulfide was the lubricant supplied with many new camshafts as THE assembly /break-in lubricant. I don’t know what is in some of the camshaft installation lubes being sold today.

By stuey - 10 Years Ago
Outlaw56 (3/17/2014)
Stuey, what is a small head ARP bolt? Anyone have any opinion on the round headed bolts with the hex head in the center? Is anti seize on exhaust manifold bolt threads a bad idea because of the heat?
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Uploads/Images/a533e0bb-0f7f-4d13-95a9-9404.jpg

the conventional hex head takes a 9/16 socket and the equivalent ARP takes 3/8 socket.
I have found that 1/2 drive sockets are too bulky for the centre bolt. Standard hex bolt with 3/8 drive 9/16 socket works.
I think hex socket head bolts would work but you would have to have a good washer under the head as there is not much under head area. Also most socket heads I've seen have a generous under head radius requiring a matching washer.Smile
Interesting re the Never-seez, I do not have any but I do have several tins of Copper slip, some a lot stiffer than others, which I hear was designed for furnace door hinges
stuey
By ian57tbird - 10 Years Ago
Never use an anti seize that contains copper in it on aluminium heads. The copper will react with the aluminium creating electrolysis and will eat away at the heads.
By stuey - 10 Years Ago
Thanks for that.That is exactly what I'm trying to avoid
By ian57tbird - 10 Years Ago
Interesting we posted at the same time and it wasn't until after that I read what you mentioned about Copper Slip, I think that is similar to a product we have here called Copper Kote.
By lyonroad - 10 Years Ago
ian57tbird (3/18/2014)
Never use an anti seize that contains copper in it on aluminium heads. The copper will react with the aluminium creating electrolysis and will eat away at the heads.


That goes for anything that is zinc plated. If you have ever done any roofing you will know that galvanized nails must never be used on copper flashing.
By lyonroad - 10 Years Ago
NoShortcuts (3/18/2014)
[quote]Outlaw56 (3/18/2014)


With JM’s aluminum heads, I recall Ted writing a caution regarding using Never-Seez on spark plug threads. My take-away understanding from the posting was, ‘Coat the spark plug thread surface; DON’T fill the threads. Excess Never-Seez can ‘crystallize’ or cake-up (my words) on the end of the plug exposed in the combustion chamber and make removal of the plug difficult’.

______________________



If I recall correctly Ted gave at least two reasons not to use anti seize on spark plugs that have been plated. One is because of the tendancy to over torque the plugs. The plating on the plugs is designed to let go when the plugs are torqued or removed. Secondly, when cooked anti seize breaks down and forms a carbon like substance that is very abrasive to valves and cylinder walls etc. if drawn into the combustion chamber by any back pressure. I would think this would be risky if used on manifolds as well.
By Rono - 10 Years Ago
I'm not sure if these will work with Rams Horns due to the large bolt hole size in the header flange and the length required, but I've used the "Stage 8" locking header bolt fasteners with good success. They have a smaller diameter hex head with an Allen Head in the center for better access. The locking tabs make it impossible for the bolt to loosen up and back off. They make many different types depending on your application, but I don't know if they have a version that is 2&1/2" long. Might be worth checking out their website though.

Rono
By NoShortcuts - 10 Years Ago
lyonroad (3/18/2014)
NoShortcuts (3/18/2014)
[quote]Outlaw56 (3/18/2014)




If I recall correctly Ted gave at least two reasons not to use anti seize on spark plugs that have been plated. One is because of the tendency to over torque the plugs. The plating on the plugs is designed to let go when the plugs are torqued or removed. Secondly, when cooked anti seize breaks down and forms a carbon like substance that is very abrasive to valves and cylinder walls etc. if drawn into the combustion chamber by any back pressure. I would think this would be risky if used on manifolds as well.


_______________________

It sounds like I read Ted’s posting in haste and that my rec-collector isn’t helping the situation either. Thanks for coming in on this Ian and Mark regarding potential metal interaction between the copper in SOME anti-seize compounds and aluminum, and the use of anti-seize materials with plated spark plug housings. I hadn’t registered on the effect of anti-seize compound on correctly torquing spark plugs OR the consequences of interfering with manufacturers’ purpose in plating spark plugs.

__________________

Too, it sounds like there are different formulations of anti-seize compounds. I’m using the ‘Never-Seez’ brand, catalog number NS-160.


The display advertising label on the can calls it an ‘anti-seize and lubricating compound’. At the bottom of that label it is tagged an ‘extreme pressure lubricant’. The same front label proclaims the product to be for ‘protection against: -extreme heat…over 2,000 *F, -corrosion, -seizure, -galling, -rust, -carbon fusion, -galvanic pitting’. The ingredient make-up of the product is not given anywhere on the can.


In the listing of potential application categories AND specific uses for the product on the back of the can, under ‘general’ it is recommended for use with ‘steel threads to aluminum or magnesium castings; Stainless steel to stainless steel threaded fasteners’.

__________________

Again, kudos to Ian and Mark for not letting what I wrote stand to be read by others as applying to ALL anti-seize compounds and Mark, thanks for correcting my incorrect recounting of Ted’s earlier posting of information about the use of anti-seize compounds on spark plug threads. Blush

By vntgtrk - 10 Years Ago
Looks like the book is correct recommending graphite lube.
By yblock - 10 Years Ago
I would use a grad8 bolt with a hardened washer,reason being grade 8 has flexabilty and durabuility. have don it this way on atleast 5 engines no more loos or broken bolts. spring washers will loose the spring du to heat,so do not use lock washers standerd flat washers or grade 5 on any exmanifold, in my experiance. cliff
By ian57tbird - 10 Years Ago
I have had good success with stainless bolts on headers with aluminium heads. They are a lower grade bolt but if they meet torque needs it should be OK, and they fix a lot of corrosion issues.
By lyonroad - 10 Years Ago
NoShortcuts (3/18/2014)
[quote]lyonroad (3/18/2014)
[quote]NoShortcuts (3/18/2014)
[quote]Outlaw56 (3/18/2014)

Again, kudos to Ian and Mark for not letting what I wrote stand to be read by others as applying to ALL anti-seize compounds and Mark, thanks for correcting my incorrect recounting of Ted’s earlier posting of information about the use of anti-seize compounds on spark plug threads. Blush



Charlie, you are welcome. In no way was my post intended to correct what you said, but rather to add to what you said. For years I have been using the aluminum coloured Permatex product, oblivious to all the pitfalls of making assumptions. I recently purchased a made in Canada product by Kleen-flo. The label claims most of the advantages that your product has and since the label is copper covered I though I had my bases covered (an aluminum based product and copper based product). I just read the MDS sheet and it has about 10% alumium, 10% copper an 30% graphite. Go figure!
By miker - 10 Years Ago
FWIW, the copper product I've always used on ground and terminal connections came out of the electrical industry. I'm sure it's CU-AL rated by UL and CSA. And given how much galvanized steel we used, I'd be surprised if it was a problem there, either.

And thanks to whoever posted that adding a "tag" let one post from Safari.
By CK and his 55Tbird - 10 Years Ago
Why any anti seize, grease, etc. No manufacturer fits grease or anti seize.

Always cold Heads with Aluminium with every thing you do with them. 38*C and below.
And how about tensions,its easy to pull threads with aluminium, grease won't change that.
By CK and his 55Tbird - 10 Years Ago
Maniseal is a ceramic gasket sealer, perhaps you can use that on the threads?
By Y block Billy - 10 Years Ago
Now as my memory is coming back, I had to whittle/file a contour in the manifolds over the spark plugs in order to get a plug socket on the plugs in some locations.
By stuey - 10 Years Ago
just finished installing ram horn manifolds, these are on ally heads. i found i needed 3 at 1.5" and 4 at 1.75"  i tried 3 at 1.75" and 4 at 2" but these bottomed out.  
stuey 
By Outlaw56 - 10 Years Ago
Ted,

If I understand correctly, you favor no gaskets when using cast iron exhaust manifolds on cast iron heads. John Mummert recommends (4) 1 1/2" bolts and (3) 2" bolts to install his manifolds. Would this not using a gasket change this length?
By HT32BSX115 - 10 Years Ago
Outlaw56 (4/28/2014)
When installing intake manifolds without a gasket, how would you block off the port under the carberator to minimize heat damage to the paint on the intake manifold when not using a gasket?


I don't think anyone is referring to the intake manifold.  I think we're just talking about the exhaust manifold aren't we?
By Outlaw56 - 10 Years Ago
Your right, I got off track on that one. Looks like I hijacked my own thread. I will clean that post up with the "edit option".
By Ted - 10 Years Ago
Outlaw56 (4/28/2014)
Ted, If I understand correctly, you favor no gaskets when using cast iron exhaust manifolds on cast iron heads. John Mummert recommends (4) 1 1/2" bolts and (3) 2" bolts to install his manifolds. Would this not using a gasket change this length?

Bolt length will not change if gaskets are not used.  A thin film of red high temperature RTV in lieu of a gasket wouldn't hurt.
Here's the link to a previous thread discussing the truck exhaust gaskets which did not use any sealer on them.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost5884.aspx 
By Outlaw56 - 10 Years Ago
Thanks Ted! I have a really hard time with the search options and posting pictures with the new software. If I could navigate thru the search better, I would not have to post so many "new topics" that are already covered.