hello

my first post, so please don't flame me too hard :-)

I have just bought and shipped a 1959 Galaxie from the US and just got her back to UK.

The 292 in her is locked up, any suggestions for freeing her up and maybe getting her running?

The odeometer reads 66k-ish, and given the general overall feel of the car, I get the impression that someone dies and she was rolled behind the barn in 1971 (there is a service sticker on the A-post for early 71)

here's a couple of pics

right hand valve cover off

Cheers, Taff

1959 Ford Galaxie 2dr sedan, 292 (just woken up after a 38 year sleep!)

This is not an all-inclusive list so anyone else please feel free to add to it.

 

Step 1.  Check the fuel tank.  If it has fuel in it, then drain and clean the fuel tank and lines thoroughly.

 

Step 2.  Remove or loosen the rocker arm assembly and check that none of the valves are stuck open.  Tapping on the tops of the valves and seeing the valves return back to their closed positions is also recommended.  Check that all the pushrods are in place and none are bent.

 

Step 3.  Remove the spark plugs and shoot a couple of ounces of ATF into each cylinder.  Use only a lightweight oil for this and not engine oil.  Let this sit for awhile and then hook up pressurized air (85-125psi) to each cylinder and force that oil into the ring land cavities.  If necessary, put more oil into the cylinders and repeat the process.

 

Step 4.  Once the engine is rotating, then reinstall the valve train and check the tappet/lash settings.   Then get into the distributor and check that the points are usable.  Install a new point set if the old points look to be corroded.  Spin the engine over and check that you have fire from the distributor cap end of the coil wire.  Install a new set of properly gapped spark plugs at this point.

 

Step 5.  Assuming you’ve got the fuel system sorted out earlier and it’s hooked up with fresh fuel available, then the engine has spun over enough at this point you shoud have fuel at the carb.  If you see fuel seepage at the carb, it likely needs to be rebuilt.  Assuming the carburetor is in a runable condition, try to start the engine.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

One hopful sign is that I dont see any crud on top of the one head you have the cover off of.Usually they are full of residue.Good luck!

  

Taff, I think you will find that MOST on here won't "Flame you" for asking questions. Good luck with your 'New" Y-Block and have a Happy New Year.

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

Welcome from Texas!  This is the most excellent place on the www for info, help, encouragement, etc for all things Y-block.  Excellent score on your 59!

Please keep us posted on your progress and let's see some more pictures!

Mark

"God Bless Texas"location: Houston,TX

Looks like you have a good start. Ted has listed some good things although I think it will be unlikely that the carb. will be in good shape after all these years.  I assume that it is a 2100 Motorcraft/Autolite carb. in that case it is fairly easy to remove the top to inspect for "crud or corrosion".  Good luck with it and welcome to the site.

   God Bless.   Tim                           http://yblockguy.com/

350ci Y-Block FED "Elwood", 301ci Y-Block Unibody LSR "Jake", 312ci Y-Block '58 F-100, 338ci Y-Block powered Model A Tudor

tim@yblockguy.com  Visalia, California    Just west of the Sequoias

Top side does look good. Unless there is internal damage I think you may have found a runner. Be paitient with the ATF (or Marvel Mystery oil), give it some time to do its thing. I've seen them take many days to work. Once the engine moves a bit you can often rock it back and forth to continue to work it loose. Good luck with it. We will be interested in watching your project develop! Welcome aboard. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

I have also had some luck with using some gun cleaning products like Brownalls foaming gun cleaner for loosening some of the carbon off areas like exhaust runners and comustion chambers on heads. It is a pretty light oil and does not leave a residue. Not sure if the products are readily available in the UK but if you can get them they work pretty well.



Again welcome to the forum, I have gotten a lot of great advice and support from all.

Mike Rizzo

1963 F100 "Rudy"

Daniel Island, SC

After doing the things mentioned by others above, I had one that we cranked for days and it wanted to run when fresh ATF or mystery oil was poured down the carb but shortly ran out of compression. (stuck rings) I informed my brother to pull me down the road at 40 mph for an automatic, dropped it in gear and it fired right off, he drove the car for a couple years and it turns out to be one of the best running Y's he has ever had. The body is shot so he is looking for something to put that running gear in.

55 Vicky & customline

58 Rack Dump, 55 F350 yard truck, 57 F100

59 & 61 P 400's, 58 F100 custom cab, 69 F100, 79 F150, 82 F600 ramp truck, 90 mustang conv 7 up, 94 Mustang, Should I continue?

well, no news is good news!

the car is stored at a friends farm about 20 mnutes from here, so I can't just pop out to the garage and do a little work

the spark plugs are proving hard to shift, they have had a liberal soaking in penetrating fluid and I'll have a go at them with a larger breaker bar at the weekend!

thatnks for the hints and tips guys, and please keep them coming. she is such a disticntive car and I've been a chevy guy for too long...... :-)

Cheers, Taff

1959 Ford Galaxie 2dr sedan, 292 (just woken up after a 38 year sleep!)