reviving a 292


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By Taff - 14 Years Ago
hello

my first post, so please don't flame me too hard :-)

I have just bought and shipped a 1959 Galaxie from the US and just got her back to UK.

The 292 in her is locked up, any suggestions for freeing her up and maybe getting her running?

The odeometer reads 66k-ish, and given the general overall feel of the car, I get the impression that someone dies and she was rolled behind the barn in 1971 (there is a service sticker on the A-post for early 71)

here's a couple of pics

right hand valve cover off

By Ted - 13 Years Ago

This is not an all-inclusive list so anyone else please feel free to add to it.

 

Step 1.  Check the fuel tank.  If it has fuel in it, then drain and clean the fuel tank and lines thoroughly.

 

Step 2.  Remove or loosen the rocker arm assembly and check that none of the valves are stuck open.  Tapping on the tops of the valves and seeing the valves return back to their closed positions is also recommended.  Check that all the pushrods are in place and none are bent.

 

Step 3.  Remove the spark plugs and shoot a couple of ounces of ATF into each cylinder.  Use only a lightweight oil for this and not engine oil.  Let this sit for awhile and then hook up pressurized air (85-125psi) to each cylinder and force that oil into the ring land cavities.  If necessary, put more oil into the cylinders and repeat the process.

 

Step 4.  Once the engine is rotating, then reinstall the valve train and check the tappet/lash settings.   Then get into the distributor and check that the points are usable.  Install a new point set if the old points look to be corroded.  Spin the engine over and check that you have fire from the distributor cap end of the coil wire.  Install a new set of properly gapped spark plugs at this point.

 

Step 5.  Assuming you’ve got the fuel system sorted out earlier and it’s hooked up with fresh fuel available, then the engine has spun over enough at this point you shoud have fuel at the carb.  If you see fuel seepage at the carb, it likely needs to be rebuilt.  Assuming the carburetor is in a runable condition, try to start the engine.

By oldcarmark - 13 Years Ago
One hopful sign is that I dont see any crud on top of the one head you have the cover off of.Usually they are full of residue.Good luck!
By The Master Cylinder - 13 Years Ago
Taff (1/1/2012)
hello my first post, so please don't flame me too hard :-)




Taff, I think you will find that MOST on here won't "Flame you" for asking questions. Smooooth Good luck with your 'New" Y-Block and have a Happy New Year.
By texasmark1 - 13 Years Ago
Welcome from Texas!  This is the most excellent place on the www for info, help, encouragement, etc for all things Y-block.  Excellent score on your 59!

Please keep us posted on your progress and let's see some more pictures!

Mark

By mctim64 - 13 Years Ago
Looks like you have a good start. Ted has listed some good things although I think it will be unlikely that the carb. will be in good shape after all these years.  I assume that it is a 2100 Motorcraft/Autolite carb. in that case it is fairly easy to remove the top to inspect for "crud or corrosion".  Good luck with it and welcome to the site.Smile
By MoonShadow - 13 Years Ago
Top side does look good. Unless there is internal damage I think you may have found a runner. Be paitient with the ATF (or Marvel Mystery oil), give it some time to do its thing. I've seen them take many days to work. Once the engine moves a bit you can often rock it back and forth to continue to work it loose. Good luck with it. We will be interested in watching your project develop! Welcome aboard. Chuck in NH
By Riz - 13 Years Ago
I have also had some luck with using some gun cleaning products like Brownalls foaming gun cleaner for loosening some of the carbon off areas like exhaust runners and comustion chambers on heads. It is a pretty light oil and does not leave a residue. Not sure if the products are readily available in the UK but if you can get them they work pretty well.



Again welcome to the forum, I have gotten a lot of great advice and support from all.
By Y block Billy - 13 Years Ago
After doing the things mentioned by others above, I had one that we cranked for days and it wanted to run when fresh ATF or mystery oil was poured down the carb but shortly ran out of compression. (stuck rings) I informed my brother to pull me down the road at 40 mph for an automatic, dropped it in gear and it fired right off, he drove the car for a couple years and it turns out to be one of the best running Y's he has ever had. The body is shot so he is looking for something to put that running gear in.
By Taff - 13 Years Ago
well, no news is good news!

the car is stored at a friends farm about 20 mnutes from here, so I can't just pop out to the garage and do a little work

the spark plugs are proving hard to shift, they have had a liberal soaking in penetrating fluid and I'll have a go at them with a larger breaker bar at the weekend!

thatnks for the hints and tips guys, and please keep them coming. she is such a disticntive car and I've been a chevy guy for too long...... :-)

By grovedawg - 13 Years Ago
Welcome aboard the forum. If you can, shoot a video of the motor starting up. I'm a junkie for Y block videos. Good luck and keep us posted.
By Missouri Mike - 13 Years Ago
   Welcome to the site and good luck with your '59.

    Folks on this site are very helpful and patient when it comes to sorting through problems and answering questions. I think you'll be well pleased, you've come to the right place.

     Missouri Mike

     Smack dab in the middle of the USA.

By Taff - 13 Years Ago
well, the plugs finally came out1 took 6 hours and 2 litres of penetrating fluid but eventually they came out. i have never been so pleased to see 8 plugs in my hand1

so the bores are now full of diesel/ATF mix and i'll take a well earned break. Next stiop, getting the rad and hose's out while the motor free's itself off

By Taff - 13 Years Ago
quick one guys, what size is the crank nut going to be? the car is in storage abot 10 miles from here, I don't want to drive over there and find out I have the wrong tools!!

thanks, Taff

By aussiebill - 13 Years Ago
Taff (1/10/2012)
quick one guys, what size is the crank nut going to be? the car is in storage abot 10 miles from here, I don't want to drive over there and find out I have the wrong tools!!

thanks, Taff

13/16" ??

By stuey - 13 Years Ago
9/16 - 18 tpi  13/16 af

i found a 20mm socket works ...... as we are cursed with metric!

stuey

England

By Taff - 13 Years Ago
stuey (1/11/2012)
9/16 - 18 tpi  13/16 af

i found a 20mm socket works ...... as we are cursed with metric!

stuey

England

 

cheers there chap.

I asssume your the R'n'S Stuey?

By stuey - 13 Years Ago
no sir
By Taff - 13 Years Ago
well, i got the crank bolt out!

I got the rad, water pump and hose's etc all out of the way, dumped anopther couple of litres of diesel down through the valve train and gave her a gentle rocking. Nothing.

Not too worry, I'll keep on it, she hasn't been serviced since 1971 so I'm not suprised she's being stubborn!! On the plus side, everything that comes off looks good and serviceable

By stuey - 13 Years Ago
Taff

just a couple of pointers

useful book FORD Y-BLOCK by James Eickman

useful websites:  J Mummert at http://www.ford-y-block.com , T Eaton at http://www.eatonbalancing.com  and look for Mctim on You Tube. the Y-block has one or two tricks for the unwary.

 this website is a mine of info and i have found the people to be extremely helpful friendly and enthusiastic. get into using the Search facility!

all the best

stuey

By Taff - 13 Years Ago
Taff (1/15/2012)
well, i got the crank bolt out!

I got the rad, water pump and hose's etc all out of the way, dumped anopther couple of litres of diesel down through the valve train and gave her a gentle rocking. Nothing.

Not too worry, I'll keep on it, she hasn't been serviced since 1971 so I'm not suprised she's being stubborn!! On the plus side, everything that comes off looks good and serviceable

Well, it moving.

 

I’ve been chipping away at her since before Christmas, plugs took an age to get out and then the bores were filled with diesel. The engine oil was drained out (didn’t appear to be any nasties in there) and then the motor was filled to the brim with diesel. This was drained and replaced a a couple of times, while gently rocking the breaker bar on the crank nut. And today, while dicking about with a couple of smaller things (like you do), I gave it a gentle rock as I walked past and she moved a little. Not much, but it was movement.

An hours gentle rocking later and I have got her a quarter of a turn. I was so cold by then (it’s about zero here today and the cars in an open barn) and I gave up before I went down with frost bite! Still, it’s further than that engine has turned in about 35 years, eh?!

By texasmark1 - 13 Years Ago
keep at it

keep at it!

wishing you warmth from Texas... where its 65 degrees today

Mark

By bird55 - 13 Years Ago
Glad you're making progress. Patience will pay off. It may still have broken rings and such, but you can still survive that without a wholesale rebuild if you want. But we're rooting for you that it just needs more of what your doing. I forget from your past post, Are the rocker arm assemblies off?
By Taff - 13 Years Ago
bird55 (2/4/2012)
Glad you're making progress. Patience will pay off. It may still have broken rings and such, but you can still survive that without a wholesale rebuild if you want. But we're rooting for you that it just needs more of what your doing. I forget from your past post, Are the rocker arm assemblies off?

nope, the rockers are still on.

items removed are as follws:-

waterpump, dynamo, starter motor.

i was considering removing the dizzy as well? but know she's turning over.....   :-)

By Taff - 13 Years Ago
up to half a turn, though i broke my patented engine freeing tool ( 5ft length of 2x4 with bolts through it!) in the process. time to go back with a metal one next time
she's fighting me but she's slowly giving it up!
By Taff - 13 Years Ago
refitted the strater motor today and she's now spinning over on the key for the first time since 1970's

i'll carry out a couple of oil changes and once i'm happy i have some oil pressure i'll go for a start up!

By Taff - 13 Years Ago
got her started today and she runs for about 5 seconds before cutting out, which is the carb needing a complete strip and rebuild

can someone recommend a good brand of carb rebuild kit? THe RockAuto one looks to be missing a few items?

By slumlord444 - 13 Years Ago
If it starts and runs for 5 seconds I would double check that you have fuel pressure and fuel coming up to the carb. Had similar problem with a Mustang that had sat for many years and fuel pump was toast and had dirt and rust in fuel tank.
By Taff - 13 Years Ago
slumlord444 (4/7/2012)
If it starts and runs for 5 seconds I would double check that you have fuel pressure and fuel coming up to the carb. Had similar problem with a Mustang that had sat for many years and fuel pump was toast and had dirt and rust in fuel tank.

no fuel pump fitted to it, my friend,

The original fuel pump is toast, and I have an electric fuel pump ready to be fitted. The 5 second run up was achieved using a gravity-fed temporary fuel system

By pegleg - 13 Years Ago
Before you run it with the Gas tank hooked up i'd drain whatever's in there and clean it out.
By slumlord444 - 13 Years Ago
Sounds like carb or filter problem. I would also sugest sealing the tank after you clean it.
By Taff - 13 Years Ago
the tank is off now,it also has a couple of small weeping holes in it.

I'll see if they can be cleaned up and welded before i seal and refit it.

it's also pretty bashed about but no-one is going to see it under there, right?!

By Town Vicky - 13 Years Ago
They sell new tank for a fair price.
By Taff - 13 Years Ago
Town Vicky (4/14/2012)
They sell new tank for a fair price.

true, but getting stuff shipped to the UK is currently very expensive.

for example, new rockers are availabe for $20. shipping is another $175.

By Riz - 13 Years Ago
Probably know this but it is always worth mentioning for safety--Just make sure to purge really well before welding and pressure test if repairing the tank. I learned the hard way on a motorcycle tank I thought was empty enough to weld it does not take a whole lot of vapor to flash on you. My eyebrows took a while to come back.
By Taff - 12 Years Ago
latest question guys.

I'm getting reday to register the Glaxie here in the UK and I need the engine number.

Whereabouts n a 1959 vitage 292 motor is the number likely to be? is it cast on, stamped into a small machined area or what/

Thanks in advance

Taff
By charliemccraney - 12 Years Ago
The engineering number will be cast on the block. It will be above the oil filter or by the distributor, or on the front, distributor side of the block (your driver's side).

However, for registration, I imagine they're looking for a VIN and unless things were different in the UK, that will not exist.
By Rig - 12 Years Ago
Careful with the cheater bar on the spark plugs!

But taking the spark plugs out would be the first thing on my list, followed by ATF or some other kind of cleaning oil.

I had an engine that seemed totally frozen, and I worked on it a little at a time, getting it to turn finally without the plugs in. Just messing around, I put in a couple of spark plugs on cylinders 1 and 6, and it fired and ran for a few seconds off the WD40 I had sprayed in the cylinders! Scared the daylights out of me, but made me very happy.
By Taff - 12 Years Ago
charliemccraney (4/24/2013)
The engineering number will be cast on the block. It will be above the oil filter or by the distributor, or on the front, distributor side of the block (your driver's side).

However, for registration, I imagine they're looking for a VIN and unless things were different in the UK, that will not exist.


Charlie, is that number unique to my engine? Or is it a "general" number for that (capacity of) engine for 1959?
By stuey - 12 Years Ago
morning TaffSmile

glad to see you are making progress. stick at it so many people give up.

you will need both VIN number and engine number for the DVLA. the VIN numb is usually on a plate on a door pillar. the engine number is usually stamped into the deck and may be under a cylinder head. if the block has been skimmed it may be missing. naughty but you could invent oneWhistling mine is 9 digits long.i also found the VIN number on slips of paper in a wallet clipped to the sun visor.

keep up the good fight

stuey

UK
By charliemccraney - 12 Years Ago
Taff (4/25/2013)
Charlie, is that number unique to my engine? Or is it a "general" number for that (capacity of) engine for 1959?

It is not unique and is a "general" number. It sounds like Stuey knows what you need.
By Taff - 12 Years Ago
stuey (4/25/2013)
morning TaffSmile

glad to see you are making progress. stick at it so many people give up.

you will need both VIN number and engine number for the DVLA. the VIN numb is usually on a plate on a door pillar. the engine number is usually stamped into the deck and may be under a cylinder head. if the block has been skimmed it may be missing. naughty but you could invent oneWhistling mine is 9 digits long.i also found the VIN number on slips of paper in a wallet clipped to the sun visor.

keep up the good fight

stuey

UK


Well, I'm not pulling a head for the engine number, not now I've got her running so sweetly!!

Got the VIN, that was on the door piller plate, guess i'm going over the engine with a torch tomorrow to find a nine digit number I can use!

Charlie, thanks for that, though even a "general" number wou probably suffice in this situation, given the low number of 292-powered Galaxies on the UK roads!
By sprink88 - 12 Years Ago
Taft. If you can get under your car. take off the oil filter. The engine number is stamped right above that.