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Adding coolant lines to the heads?

Posted By MD55Bird 15 Years Ago
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2721955meteor
Posted 11 Years Ago
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agree about the shroud,and fan placement in the shroud is also critical 2/3rds of the fan should be in the shroud ,no more no less for max efficient air floe.
temp top to botem of rad usually indicated  plugged or not enough capacity of radiator. I also agree the wp spacer is bad news. my first salvage of 55 third was no engine .as well of many other issues,could not find spacer for wp,but found a dampner for bird. made a spacer for wp pulley so belts lined up.had rad serviced, cores roded,installed a fairly strong 312 i built never had a heating problem,even in the summers in victoria wher i lived at the time. temp diference of 10-15  dgrs top to botem ,means rad ia ok,But proper air flow at idel is imperative,RE proper shroud. my first bird had the shroud and rad in the runk so i was lucky , but have  loked at many birds that have 3bladed fans and no shroud. ok in the fall
HT32BSX115
Posted 15 Years Ago
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Howdy,





It appears that the Casco clutch and fan are Hayden units.





I asked Hayden Tech support which clutch and fan would be good for my 292. and they told me to get either a Hayden #2710 or #2711. The Fan is a Hayden #3618 (18") 6 blade aluminum fan. I found both of them online for less than $30 each!

There's a 3619 also. (19")





I paid about $60 for them at a local auto parts store and both were in stock!! Just about everybody carries Hayden. (including Casco!)





It is absolutely imperative that you have a shroud with any fan to get adequate airflow. If you don't have one, make one.





As was indicated above, if the pump is not turning fast enough to move coolant though the engine you'll have to fix that too.





An easy way to determine if you have water flow is to use a simple Harbor Freight Infrared temp "gun"







Just "shoot" the top of the radiator or the T-stat housing and the water pump inlet to see the temp drop. (Coolant goes from top-bottom so the top should be hotter)



If there's not much temp drop at the water pump inlet, (but there is at the bottom of the radiator) then there's probably not much coolant flowing though the radiator!



You can have someone hold the rpm above idle and see what RPM the water starts flowing!







Regards,





Rick










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1955 F-600/272/E4OD// Disclaimer: No animals were injured while test driving my F-600 except the ones I ran over intentionally!

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GREENBIRD56
Posted 15 Years Ago
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I've managed to gather up a new Hayden Heavy Duty Fan Clutch and a six blade fan to match - but still haven't got the necessary pulley designed to put it all together. Work is interfering with my hobby.................

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/9ea2bf28-00c4-4772-9ac7-d154.jpg 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona
DANIEL TINDER
Posted 15 Years Ago
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GREENBIRD56 (7/23/2010) The smaller pulley has revved up the pump on my outfit (about 20%) - but it doesn't really help to spin the fan that much faster. Makes a lot of noise and I would like to re-configure and use a clutch type fan drive - next on my list.


Steve,

FYI: Smaller pulley and CASCO clutch fan is blowing a surprisingly noticeable increase in wind (over the 4-blade) though the engine compartment, even when cold and still largely freewheeling. No added noise detected.

6 VOLTS/POS. GRD. NW INDIANA
MD55Bird
Posted 15 Years Ago
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All went well yesterday. It got a bit hairy when my parents got in a bit of traffic. It was 104 deg out and the car shot up to 215 real fast. It's a good thing the traffic started moving. I'll be changing out the pulley as soon as I get the chance. Thanks for all the advice.

Wayne

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Eddie Paskey
Posted 15 Years Ago
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Hey Steve;  I'm using Casco's Fan Clutch and their Blade assembly.  It works!!!   Wayne get rid of the tin plate, see casco test aboutr it!!   have a great Weekend   God Bless  Eddie

Eddie

Lake Forest, Ca. 92630

GREENBIRD56
Posted 15 Years Ago
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The testing done by CASCO (results shown on their site) - shows the stainless spacer plate didn't help at all. I think the improved impeller is the answer....John Mummert is exactly right, anything that puts more hot water through the radiator is good. The smaller pulley has revved up the pump on my outfit (about 20%) - but it doesn't really help to spin the fan that much faster. Makes a lot of noise and I would like to re-configure and use a clutch type fan drive - next on my list.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/9ea2bf28-00c4-4772-9ac7-d154.jpg 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona
MD55Bird
Posted 15 Years Ago
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I am running the spacer but I also have the better pump from casco and the stainless plate to go between the pump and the spacer. I'll try the combined smaller pulley and increased fan and see what that gives me.

Thanks All,

   Wayne

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Vic Correnti
Posted 15 Years Ago
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Do you have the 1" spacer behind the water pump? T-birds had this to allow the generator sit in front of the block. I had the similar problems years ago but once I went to an alternator and eliminated the spacer I never had any cooling problems anymore.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/7393d096-cbf0-4ed0-bfdc-c4b0.jpg  Vic Correnti


John Mummert
Posted 15 Years Ago
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I'll add some blasphemy. Ford screwed up when they made the T-Bird. The problem is not an air flow problem, it is a water flow problem. The T-Bird water pump spacer is the problem!!!!!!! It causes the pump to be very inefficient at idle, little or no water circulates. Yes moving more air helps slightly but the engine will still overheat. At higher RPM the pump will move water.

So far, Casco has the best solution with the added blades to the back of the impellor. Yeah it looks a little primitive but it does work.

http://ford-y-block.com 

20 miles east of San Diego, 20 miles north of Mexico

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