What is the torque spec. Didn’t see it provide paperwork 
I’m thinking 45-55
thanks

If wanting the ARP head bolts for the Y, then doing a custom order with them will get what you need.  I use the six point bolts although twelve point head bolts are available.  John Mummert offers the head bolts as a kit so that’s another option.

Here are the ARP six point head bolt part numbers and number of each that's required

(20) APW1316   <washers>
(10) HAP 2.400-5
(6)   HAP 4.180-5
(4)   HAP 4.500-5

As a general rule, always check the head bolt holes in the blocks for being threaded deep enough.  I will install the bolts first without the washers to ensure that the bolts do go deep enough and then reinstall with the washers.  The ARP washers have a bevel on one side and that bevel must go up and against the head of the bolt.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Hi Joe  sent you a E-mail note   (Cos) Oregon

Thanks for the info, Ted. Do you prefer bolts to studs?

Grade 8 bolts are just fine if you are building an engine for your vehicle and expect it to run trouble free for years.  Studs are a better choice where you are going to be tearing it down for rings, bearings, freshening ever couple of years or so.  With a bolt, you are torquing against the threads in the block and bolt.  With a stud, you are torquing against the nut, not twisting the stud against the block.  Saves the block a little better.  Joe-JDC

JDC

If given the choice, I will go with the bolts for the cylinder heads rather than studs.  The clamping force between studs and bolts is equal assuming all threads have been properly dressed.  Studs can be somewhat cumbersome if having to deal with them on an engine in a car; hence the reasoning for preferring bolts over studs.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)