Yes I did.  

Anyone have the torque spec for the header bolts with aluminum heads? I'm assuming anti seize is appropriate on the bolts. 

I have a problem with using a torque wrench on the header bolts with aluminum heads.  A 3/8" drive with 12" handle can give you more than enough torque without using a torque wrench.  A 3/8-7/16" box end wrench can, also.  Some header bolts are short if the header flange is 3/8" thick or more.  Try to use bolts that engage the heads at least 1/2" but the full 3/4" would be better.  I snug the bolts down with a wrench, do a heat soak, and re-tighten them with the same wrench.  If you use anti-seize, then snug is your friend.  Anti-seize will lubricate the bolt and you can over torque them using a torque wrench.  Just my experience.  I have had to install several heli-coils in my aluminum heads due to removing and reinstalling the bolts multiple times.  35 lb/ft. max.  Joe-JDC

JDC

I’m running FPA headers with the aluminum heads on my bird, been on over 10 years. I agree with Joe, anti-sieze and snug up, or the 35lbs. Leaking has not been a problem, but I did re tighten them. I put a wrench on once in a while, but they seem fine.

Kind of OT, but ARP used to have a chart that showed “torque equivalents” dry, with oil, with their lube, etc. Was surprising what the different values were based on bolt stretch.

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

If wanting the ARP head bolts for the Y, then doing a custom order with them will get what you need.  I use the six point bolts although twelve point head bolts are available.  John Mummert offers the head bolts as a kit so that’s another option.

Here are the ARP six point head bolt part numbers and number of each that's required

(20) APW1316   <washers>
(10) HAP 2.400-5
(6)   HAP 4.180-5
(4)   HAP 4.500-5

As a general rule, always check the head bolt holes in the blocks for being threaded deep enough.  I will install the bolts first without the washers to ensure that the bolts do go deep enough and then reinstall with the washers.  The ARP washers have a bevel on one side and that bevel must go up and against the head of the bolt.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Hi Joe  sent you a E-mail note   (Cos) Oregon

Thanks for the info, Ted. Do you prefer bolts to studs?

Grade 8 bolts are just fine if you are building an engine for your vehicle and expect it to run trouble free for years.  Studs are a better choice where you are going to be tearing it down for rings, bearings, freshening ever couple of years or so.  With a bolt, you are torquing against the threads in the block and bolt.  With a stud, you are torquing against the nut, not twisting the stud against the block.  Saves the block a little better.  Joe-JDC

JDC

If given the choice, I will go with the bolts for the cylinder heads rather than studs.  The clamping force between studs and bolts is equal assuming all threads have been properly dressed.  Studs can be somewhat cumbersome if having to deal with them on an engine in a car; hence the reasoning for preferring bolts over studs.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)