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By Richard - 3 Years Ago
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What is the torque spec. Didn’t see it provide paperwork
I’m thinking 45-55
thanks
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By 55blacktie - 3 Years Ago
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Richard, those aluminum heads are a big investment; be patient and wait for an answer from someone who knows. Better still, call John Mummert, or send an email to Ted Eaton (eatonbalancing@yahoo.com). Good luck!
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By Ted - 3 Years Ago
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Grade 8 bolts with washers. 70 lb/ft for the short bolts and 75 lb/ft for the long bolts.
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By Richard - 3 Years Ago
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Thanks Ted more then I thought. I’m using ARP studs washers and nuts. Had grind a grind a 11/16 socket to fit the outside short studs as the casting was too tight. I’m going to increase the casting radius for the nut
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By Richard - 3 Years Ago
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Change of plan, I want to use the ARP bolts and washers, but cannot find a kit available. Please advise a source.
also see there is two sizes of the long bolts. Outside longer.
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By stuey - 3 Years Ago
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https://alloyboltz.com/product-category/automotive-kits/engine-bolt-kits/ford-engine-kits/ford-y-block-engine-kits/
Hi I got my kit from these people. You may find a kit is not 100%. The bolts for the front of the motor can change if you add things like air con brackets etc.
You have to be careful as some go through into the sump area and could possibly hit the crank.They also sell individual bolts if the kit is not exact.
stuey
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By Joe-JDC - 3 Years Ago
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I use ARP head stud kits on my three Y blocks with no issues. The longer bolts go in the head dowel hole location. Here is the lower ARP studs on aluminum heads. Joe-JDC
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By 55blacktie - 3 Years Ago
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Joe, do you recommend ARP studs for iron "G" heads as well?
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By Joe-JDC - 3 Years Ago
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I prefer the studs since they have the fine threads under the nuts. In my opinion, that gives a better torque value with a high pressure lubricant. The ARP studs have an allen fitting in the stud to make it easy to install or remove them. You simply loosen the nut a turn, and use an allen wrench or allen socket to remove the stud with the nut and washer in place. The studs are installed in the block just hand tight, or tight and back off a quarter turn. Joe-JDC
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By 55blacktie - 3 Years Ago
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Did you buy your studs from Mummert? I didn't see a listing for Y-block head studs on ARP's website.
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By Richard - 3 Years Ago
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Yes I did.
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By slumlord444 - 3 Years Ago
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Anyone have the torque spec for the header bolts with aluminum heads? I'm assuming anti seize is appropriate on the bolts.
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By Joe-JDC - 3 Years Ago
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I have a problem with using a torque wrench on the header bolts with aluminum heads. A 3/8" drive with 12" handle can give you more than enough torque without using a torque wrench. A 3/8-7/16" box end wrench can, also. Some header bolts are short if the header flange is 3/8" thick or more. Try to use bolts that engage the heads at least 1/2" but the full 3/4" would be better. I snug the bolts down with a wrench, do a heat soak, and re-tighten them with the same wrench. If you use anti-seize, then snug is your friend. Anti-seize will lubricate the bolt and you can over torque them using a torque wrench. Just my experience. I have had to install several heli-coils in my aluminum heads due to removing and reinstalling the bolts multiple times. 35 lb/ft. max. Joe-JDC
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By miker - 3 Years Ago
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I’m running FPA headers with the aluminum heads on my bird, been on over 10 years. I agree with Joe, anti-sieze and snug up, or the 35lbs. Leaking has not been a problem, but I did re tighten them. I put a wrench on once in a while, but they seem fine.
Kind of OT, but ARP used to have a chart that showed “torque equivalents” dry, with oil, with their lube, etc. Was surprising what the different values were based on bolt stretch.
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By Ted - 3 Years Ago
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Richard (8/31/2022)
Change of plan, I want to use the ARP bolts and washers, but cannot find a kit available. Please advise a source.
Also see there is two sizes of the long bolts. Outside longer.
If wanting the ARP head bolts for the Y, then doing a custom order with them will get what you need. I use the six point bolts although twelve point head bolts are available. John Mummert offers the head bolts as a kit so that’s another option.
Here are the ARP six point head bolt part numbers and number of each that's required
(20) APW1316 <washers>
(10) HAP 2.400-5
(6) HAP 4.180-5
(4) HAP 4.500-5
As a general rule, always check the head bolt holes in the blocks for being threaded deep enough. I will install the bolts first without the washers to ensure that the bolts do go deep enough and then reinstall with the washers. The ARP washers have a bevel on one side and that bevel must go up and against the head of the bolt.
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By cos - 3 Years Ago
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Hi Joe sent you a E-mail note (Cos) Oregon
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By 55blacktie - 3 Years Ago
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Thanks for the info, Ted. Do you prefer bolts to studs?
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By Joe-JDC - 3 Years Ago
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Grade 8 bolts are just fine if you are building an engine for your vehicle and expect it to run trouble free for years. Studs are a better choice where you are going to be tearing it down for rings, bearings, freshening ever couple of years or so. With a bolt, you are torquing against the threads in the block and bolt. With a stud, you are torquing against the nut, not twisting the stud against the block. Saves the block a little better. Joe-JDC
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By Ted - 3 Years Ago
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55blacktie (9/1/2022)
Thanks for the info, Ted. Do you prefer bolts to studs?
If given the choice, I will go with the bolts for the cylinder heads rather than studs. The clamping force between studs and bolts is equal assuming all threads have been properly dressed. Studs can be somewhat cumbersome if having to deal with them on an engine in a car; hence the reasoning for preferring bolts over studs.
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