Thanks Paul. I have 1/8” hole in the bypass plug to assure there is some flow or circulation of water in the block during warmups none however goes through to radiator with it either open or plugged with a hole.
The thermostat has a flat area where there is a small diameter hole with a device for doing the same thing. Over the years I have drilled 2-3 extra holes on the flat area of thermostats but not on this one. Photos show the internal flapper (both sides) to insure some flow thru the radiator.

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

I haven't had the problem. but I have heard from others that the heater control or any other piece (like an elbow  if using a inline control) in the intake can interfere with the operation of the thermostat.  I would check this out .

Another thing I have found out using the plug in the by-pass hose - on initial warm up it will cause the water to get very hot before the thermostat opens.(and will peg the gauge).  Once the thermostat opens, it's ok.  With the plug, you should be using the special thermostat with extra holes to allow for some coolant to flow. 

t



54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

55blacktie, FWIW. If you got one of these from the T bird guys check it first. They say it only works one way, but I've had several that leak if the engine rpm goes over about 3000. Big blast of hot air and it takes forever to blow out of the heater.

I couldn't get the picture to copy, here's a link to the typical one.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/TEM935813?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3oCi49vD6wIVEz6tBh01kgAqEAQYBSABEgKjDPD_BwE

miker
55 bird, 32 cabrio F code
Kent, WA
Tucson, AZ

I can understand what your saying. 7 years ago i had a vacuum one fail. I've converted to Newport wipers but at this time I don't want to add any more cables under the hood or dash.

 Not sure on the 55 but if you start having a problem installing the Newport electric motor; after struggling for an hour to put in the new attaching screws on my 56 stock brackets,  I used 2 longer 10-32 screws from the top down as studs, took 2 10-32 nuts from my stash and had it in 2 minutes. They work great....

56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.

Wanting to eliminate vacuum lines, I'm switching to a manual heater control valve and electric wipers. The manual heater control kit is less than $100, and it's an easy installation. My kit came with no instructions, but I was able to get them, including photos, from another source. A new vacuum heater control valve costs more than the manual conversion, and they have been known to fail. 

Even tho it says it, I believe thermostat is not sticking and in a pan of hot water it never fails. What I have 292  Edelbrock dual quad manifold, Vacuum heated control. 170* high flow thermostat. 

The vacuum heater control valve on an Edelbrock manifold is closer to the thermostat than on a stock intake. I believe the extension on a vacuum valve hits or interferes with the action of the thermostat spring at times, It seem to be a problem when cold on first start-up more than after it has ran.

Has anyone else had this problem or do you see any reason to not remove or shorten the extension on the the heater valve which protrudes into the area of the the thermostat. The extension screws into the valve body. A non high flow is smaller in diameter at the spring but I've fought a cooling problem for years and it seems to be fixed and I don't really want to change the high flow back to standard.

Cooling fixes include: 5 blade fan, radiator shroud, plug in bypass with 1/8" hole, and smaller water pump pulley. Open for suggestions.. Thanks



56 Vic, B'Ville 200 MPH Club Member, So Cal.