I have a 1956 Crown Victoria with the 292 yblock which I will be having a shop rebuild. I know that there are numerous posts about how to convert from the road draft tube to a pcv system, but I have a hard time visualizing the advice being given. Some have pictures that  show the installed pcv installed with the vacuum hose attached to the valve but not where the other end is connected to. So I need advice on installing the best possible pcv system for my particular setup.

I want to block off the opening at the road draft tube. I have the aluminum finned thunderbird valve covers that I would rather not hack into if possible. I will have the Mummert aluminum valley pan with the rear opening for a pcv system. I have a Holley 1848-1 4 barrel carb that does not have a vacuum source inlet. I know there are carb spacers with a vacuum inlet that can be used with this pcv modification. I am also installing a brake booster with a dual master cylinder that will need a vacuum source. I have a vented oil fill cap. My original oil bath cover has been converted to use a paper filter.

What would be my best option for installing a pcv system with this setup? Thanks in advance for the assistance.

That is a removable sleeve which simply allows the valley cover to retain the ¼-20 threaded stud in the valley cover hole so that the Thunderbird road draft tube can be installed later for originality purposes if so desired.  I normally cut the stud down within the valley cover hole for PCV valve clearance and just install a grommet in the existing hole.  It’s recommended to plumb the PCV valve to a location close the carburetor.  Tapping into the vacuum port at the back of a ECZ-B, Blue Thunder, or Mummert intake for a PCV valve creates a lean condition on those rear cylinders.  That rear port is not a problem with vacuum wipers or power brakes as those systems are not a constant air draw on the engine.  A working PCV valve will draw 3-6 cfm.  The PCV valve I use the most of for the Y-Blocks is a Microgard #2322 while the grommet is a Dorman #42323.  Here’s a picture of the PCV valve where the grommet is simply installed in the valley cover hole.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the explanation, advice and pictures. I will print this information and give it to my engine builder.

CASCO-




I cringe at the thought of violating an origional OEM piece ...

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With the kit above (teapot kit)you should not have any hood clearance problems on a sedan.  However, on a Bird it is very tight and clearance should be checked.


54 Victoria 312;  48 Ford Conv 302, 56 Bird 312
Forever Ford
Midland Park, NJ

If the Kit above is used with an Adapter Plate to use the later Carb on an "A" Manifold as well as a Phenolic Spacer(recommended)  the Stock Air Cleaner Clearance on a Sedan is going to be very  close. Either use a "B" Manifold or Tap for a Fitting as Ted suggested close to the Carb Base.

  

this is just my opinion, but I would leave this as an open PCV system.  That means you use the PCV valve and hook it to vacuum, but that you don't install the hose between the valve cover or oil filler cap and the air cleaner.  you can also seal the lower breather by cutting off the tube that inserts through the hole in the side of the block and then use a thin metal plate between the block and the breather and use a gasket on both sides of that plate.  This will make it look like the breather is on the side of the block, but it will be sealed.

this is just my opinion, but I would leave this as an open PCV system.  That means you use the PCV valve and hook it to vacuum, but that you don't install the hose between the valve cover or oil filler cap and the air cleaner.

Nah, your thinking is good. However, one has to find a quality cap that has an effective filtering media. Most of the junk I have seen recently has that plastic foam insert. IMO, you need to find one that uses a coarse metal media heavier than say an SOS pad. And of course it needs to be serviced on a regular basis.

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