I asked a Holley rep to recommend a carb for me, I told him I put a new distributor, 57 manifold  on my 55 Fairlane v8 272 y-block and he recommended a 0-8007 4 barrel 390 cfm so that's what I bought, I have had a terrible time to get the carb right, he vendor I bought it from just told me to send it back and he would refund  my money.
My question has anyone on the forum used this carb with a 272 with a 57 Ford intake and ha success with it? When I price this particular carb and put in a 55 or 57 Ford it states this carb is not compatible with the car. Someone please help if you can.
God Bless.
 

Here is an illustration of the idle transfer slot - its set up with the carb off the engine. I know that virtually every person who ever tried to tune a Holley four barrel carb has tried at least once, adjusting idle speed with the primary throttle blade setting alone. Wrong. On these 4160 type four barrels - that is best done by 'tweaking the position of the secondary blades. If the transfer slot coverage is not properly set - you will have a tough time - every time............ Holley used to send reps out to the various speed shops and put on clinics (circa 1960's) - those guys knew how to get an outfit working in a hurry. Now days - maybe U-tube - but experienced Holley tuners know how to do this.
.If you go through the set-up instructions for the Holley 390 carb - it will mention this.
 
The secondary throttle stop screw is located under the base plate of the carb - visible from underneath when inverted - directly below the vacuum secondary pot's attachment to the rear throttle shaft. There are several methods of dealing with this - and virtually every four-barrel carb manifold intended for use with a Holley has a clearance opening under the base at that location. I have replaced the screw with an "Allen" type set-screw and used that to turn the screw upward with the carb bolted on the manifold. I have bent the tab on the throttle shaft with needle nose pliers (a hillbilly method from my youth). And finally - I've used a long screw of the same size and pitch - cut off to be a tiny bit of "all-thread" and sticking out below the carb flange. It can then be grabbed with needle nose pliers and turned while the carb is in place. Each secondary bore has a single hole where fuel is being dribbled out of the rear bowl - this adjustment provides the idle air for that mixture.

You will also find that the throttle return springs within these carbs - will defeat the springs in the stock auto-trans "kick-down" mechanism - and that will take some tweaking to make it work.
 


 
 Steve Metzger       Tucson, Arizona