Technically, this project started about a year ago with the installation of wider rear wheels and tires:

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic57893.aspx

I wasn't kidding myself. I knew that alone wouldn't do it... and it didn't. It was mostly a cosmetic thing. In fact, I could tell no difference when it came to traction.

So, step 2, level it out.
I had lowered the front about 3" years ago, so it has a real hotrod looking rake. It looks cool but I don't believe it does anything good for traction. My method is to de-arch the springs. I left every leaf in, thinking that I'd like to retain much of the load capacity, if I want to haul something, which is likely, it's not a trailer queen show truck. This may not have been the best idea because the 3 helper springs are now in use at ride height. The ride doesn't seem too bad but time will tell. It's still a hair higher in the back but I just put the springs on and I think they settle a bit and I prefer that it be a bit to high than a bit too low. I'll get a more similar after picture of the whole truck.







I don't really like it as much as I had hoped. It looks more custom or lowrider (even though it's not really low) than hotrod to me and I'm a hotrod kind of guy but more so, I'm mostly a functional kind of guy, so if it actually does help provide better traction, I can live with it. Unfortunately, I probably will not find out until later in the year.

Some advice when dealing with old gunked up, rusty fasteners, whenever you can, clean the threads with a wire brush or a dremel with a wire brush attachment and then spray them with wd40 or a real penetrating fluid for weeks or months. If you do that, it should come apart pretty easily. Oh, and use 1/2" drive sockets and 6 point wrenches on bigger things. Patience and planning. It works.

Next, step three, traction bars... (hopefully within the next 2 months)


Lawrenceville, GA

Wait until the first time you take a curve at speed thats when you will feel the difference. You are not low enough to be a lowrider and too low for a monster truck so I think it sets at a perfect Hot Rod height. Chuck

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire

Your truck actually sits about like my `61 Uni, but mine has an Aerostar front suspension...Wish mine were lower...

James Potter
`57 Fords International



`57 Custom Tudor

`57 Fords International National Director

Pass Christian, MS (near Gulfport/Biloxi)

I notice that it is more stable in corners but my concern is that it may be too stiff and will bounce over bumps rather than follow the road. That's a major safety issue and doesn't help traction on regular roads at all and while this traction improvement is primarily for the track, the truck is primarily on the street so it needs to work well on regular roads, too. It seems like it's going to be ok.

I really don't want it too low. I don't want to completely remove "truck" from the equation.


Lawrenceville, GA

Charlie, Just my 1¢ for what it's worth. I like it. The tires seem to fill the wheel wells better. In the before pictures the tires seem to be too far back.

"The Master Cylinder"

Enjoying life at the beach in SOCAL

Charlie-For what it's worth I'll chime in, I agree with The Master Cylinder that filling up the wheel wells was a good thing.  It's a hot rod stance that's driveable.  Not a lowrider or something that's "in da weeds" to a point you can't get in or out of the driveway without scraping.  I like the short unis to begin with, and this look is cool and says "hot rod".

Well done.

Missouri Mike

I'd rather be lucky than good.................

    but good ain't bad!!

Charley,

Most Pickups, utes, light trucks, suffer from being too light in the rear with heavy springs designed for loads. Generally lighter springs help get some traction.

I'm in no way an expert but you must have a spring guy handy to have had your springs reset. These people usually have a lot of knowledge on how to set up springs properly. I'm guessing that you have gone the wrong way and it would have been better to reduce the number of leaves.

Traction bars help reduce the rotational force of the diff and if set up correctly will set that force in a downwards direction but some reports that I have heard say that they also tighten up the rear. Good shocks go a long way, I prefer shocks with shim stack valving which is more complicated than many of the others. I don't know if bilsten do a rear shock for your needs but a similar quality.

The other way that many people go carry some weight in the rear, a spare wheel, some tractor weights.

Looks? two thumbs up for both before and after. 

Cheers

Warren

Grizzly (Aussie Mainline)

I think it's going to be alright. It's proven not to be so harsh over the past few days.

re stiffer = less traction, I'll find out. If so, I can live with that as long as the whole package equals more traction when I want it. Right now, it's pretty much nonexistent. There are other reasons that I leveled it, headlight adjustment, seating position, handling, looks, possible miniscule aerodynamic benefit. I know that until the traction bars are installed, anything else really won't do much. I'll be using Cal-tracs. They're proven at the Y-block shootout (and I'm sure elsewhere), even on one other truck, traction is possible with a truck, and they're a unique design that functions under load but don't really come into play with everyday driving so it should make for a nice street/strip combination. If it doesn't, then I'll do something else.


Lawrenceville, GA

Charlie -- I'll be interested to see your Caltracs installation as I've been considering the same thing on my pickup. I think your changes look great. We're essentially in the same boat on this one!

My name is Greg and I am addicted to Y's.

Well, keep watching. You can learn from my mistakes


Lawrenceville, GA