Hi i have a 272 y block with a 2 barrel carb and three speed manual tranny. I am looking to rebuild the engine and would like to get 200 hp or moore if i can with using a reasonable amount of money. I am willing to do boltons...cam, intake manifold, 4 barrel carb, headers...etc. If anyone has good advice on how to do it or what parts to use I would really appreciate it.

Here's the best place to start.

http://www.ford-y-block.com/

58 Ford Custom 300 - San Pedro, CA (So-Cal)

Lawdog; If the engine requires an overbore, for a start you could go to 292 pistons. The crank assembly is the same...

Paul

Lawdogg

The Ford Yblock is like most other engines. To get more power increase the compression, increase the air into the engine ( cam, 4BBL intake and manifold ) airflow out of the engine ( dual exhaust, headers ) better ignition ( 57 and later distributor ) just like a Chevy or a Dodge.

Then you say at a reasonable price which brings up the question, how much are we talking about?

It might be cheaper in the long run to start with a better choice of Yblock engines than what you already have. And that brings the question, WHAT DO YOU HAVE?

You tell us and we have a better chance of getting the advice we give you right. Pete

As Pete said, What year and condition is the engine. A good 272 with the right parts will make way over any 200 hp with no trouble at all.

-Gary Burnette-

Well thanks so far for the infor. Its 1956 272 in a ford truck. It is all stock and the engine is fair condition. I have not checked compression yet. I am going to be getting a rebuild kit soon due to it shooting out some bluish white smoke at idle. So I figure I might as well build it up since I'm gona tear it open anyway. I do not have the better heads on this engine just the base factory ones. Hope this info helps so I can get some more detailed answers. Thanks again. P.s. I have heard that 57 and later distributors are no good on 56 and older y blocks...any truth???

The ’57 and later distributors are more suited for use with the ’57 and up carbs.  The ’56 and earlier carbs did not have a true ported vacuum outlet signal at the carb thus making them not very well suited to use without modifications with the later model distributors.  The ’56 and earlier distributors incorporated a vacuum only advance system which is incompatible with the later model carbs.  Likewise, the later distributors are incompatible with the early model carburetors.

 

Here’s the link to the article on how to modify the ’56 and earlier two barrel carb so it will work with the later model distributors.

http://www.eatonbalancing.com/blog/2010/02/07/modifying-the-holley-94-two-barrel-for-late-model-distributors/

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)

Even if he can't use the vacuum advance of the newer distributor, won't the mechanical advance be better?


Lawrenceville, GA

I just replied to your post about the alt conv.  I am currently building a 292 for my truck.  The original 272 runs great just its the next step in the plan.  I am planning to stick with 2 barrel for the looks.  BUT going 292 +0.040, 9:1 comp, ECZ-C heads, torque grind cam, custom headers (chev block huggers with y-block flanges).  There is tonnes of stuff that can be done.  I also have the 57 and newer dist and mods to carb as per Ted Eaton's instructions.  Keep checkin this site the advice and knowledge here is awesome.  Props to the guys like McTIM, TED, JOHN, CHARLIE off the top of my head the knowledge base and heplfullness on this site is amazing.

‘Better’ is a subjective term depending upon what the intended use is.

 

The Load-O-Matic system is a good system providing both the carb and distributor are functioning properly or as originally designed.  The key here is that the carb and the distributor are a matching pair from the factory.  When the vacuum advance chamber fails on the LOM system, then the engine sees no advance curve at all and essentially runs only at whatever the intial timing setting is.  The engine ends up being very sluggish and the fuel mileage takes a dump.

 

When the vacuum pot fails on the later model distributor that incorporates both the mechanical and vacuum advance systems, there is still a good measure of ignition advance curve being supplied by the mechanical advance portion of the system.  In this case, overall performance may feel the same but the fuel mileage ends up dropping off a bit.   On the flip side of this, it’s entirely possible to re-curve just the mechanical portion of a later model distributor and use it with both the late and early model carburetors without any vacuum assist and get acceptable performance and economy out of it.

Lorena, Texas (South of Waco)