Hitting on all eight cylinders
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Recently acquired a 55 Montclair that hasn't been run in about 20 years. I've got an ignition problem. New plugs, wires, points and condensor (same dist. cap that looks ok but might be bad). I have an in-line spark detector on the number one plug wire. Number one cylinder fires when it should but it also is getting a weak fire three or for times per revolution. I don't see any plug wires "leaking". This is a load-amatic distributor (which is firmly stuck and will probably require my taking off the carb and maybe even the intake manifold so I can break it loose before I can remove it). Any suggestions other than an new cap (or distributor).
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Depending on how sensitive your detector is, you may be seeing voltage in #1 wire from induction from adjacent wires, even though leakage is not present. Chances are the inducted voltages are not high enough to cause a spark at the plug. Regarding the cap, if you do buy a new one for the loadomatic, then decide to change to a later distributor, your new loado cap won't fit the later distributor.
John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"
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A siezed distributor is very common with these motors.Remove the collar and bolt.Soak the area where the dist. enters the manifold with a good quality penetrating oil several times over a period of days.I used a rubber mallet to gently tap on the advance mechanism on on the outside and try and break it loose working back and forth to turn it.It will come-just keep soaking it with oil etc.If you want to get an idea of how the ignition is working-run it in the dark and spray a little water around the wires and plugs.Much easier to see misfires shorts etc in the dark.
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Notice that Mark said to tap it gently after soaking it well. Best left overnite at least. Another person asking that question lost patience & broke the distributor...
Paul
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Thanks Paul.I did mention over a period of several days.Patience and a GENTLE tap should free it up.Might also help if the motor is brought up to operating temperature after soaking for a few times as the heat will expand metal making it easier to break it loose.Shut it off and try tapping the distributor.
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Hitting on all eight cylinders
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Thanks. If I could get running I might not care. I have later distutor but right now I would just like to get it to move under it's own power. Sooner or later I'll get it to move.
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Sooner or later, you will probably want to remove your distributor, but just to get it started, I don't see where it is necessary. If you have a newer distributor and it is 57 or newer, it won't match up with your carb anyway. I would install a new cap, run a wire straight from the battery to the coil to eliminate the possibility of bad wiring. How old is your gas. When I try to start an engine that hasn't run for a long time, I disconnect the line going from the fuel pump to the tank and then put something that will squirt like an oil can or a squeeze bottle like restaurants have ketsup in. I then squirt a little gas in just to see if its going to fire. Make sure you have a fire blanket and a fire extinguisher handy. I have an aluminum go kart fuel tank that I suspend over the carb to run on. But by squirting, you eliminate a stuck needle and seat. If you can get the thing to run for a while and get hot, it may be easier to get the distributor out.
Kenneth
Fredricksburg, Texas
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Where are you located? Perhaps one of our members is nearby and could take a look. Chuck in NH
Y's guys rule! Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.
MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi) Manchester, New Hampshire
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