Recently acquired a 55 Montclair that hasn't been run in about 20 years. I've got an ignition problem. New plugs, wires, points and condensor (same dist. cap that looks ok but might be bad). I have an in-line spark detector on the number one plug wire. Number one cylinder fires when it should but it also is getting a weak fire three or for times per revolution. I don't see any plug wires "leaking". This is a load-amatic distributor (which is firmly stuck and will probably require my taking off the carb and maybe even the intake manifold so I can break it loose before I can remove it). Any suggestions other than an new cap (or distributor).

Depending on how sensitive your detector is, you may be seeing voltage in #1 wire from induction from adjacent wires, even though leakage is not present.  Chances are the inducted voltages are not high enough to cause a spark at the plug.  Regarding the cap, if you do buy a new one for the loadomatic, then decide to change to a later distributor, your new loado cap won't fit the later distributor.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

A siezed distributor is very common with these motors.Remove the collar and bolt.Soak the area where the dist. enters the manifold with a good quality penetrating oil several times over a period of days.I used a rubber mallet to gently tap on the advance mechanism on on the outside and try and break it loose working back and forth to turn it.It will come-just keep soaking it with oil etc.If you want to get an idea of how the ignition is working-run it in the dark and spray a little water around the wires and plugs.Much easier to see misfires shorts etc in the dark.

  

Notice that Mark said to tap it gently after soaking it well. Best left overnite at least. Another person asking that question lost patience & broke the distributor...

Paul

Thanks Paul.I did mention over a period of several days.Patience and a GENTLE tap should free it up.Might also help if the motor is brought up to operating temperature after soaking for a few times as the heat will expand metal making it easier to break it loose.Shut it off and try tapping the distributor.

  

Thanks. If I could get running I might not care. I have later distutor but right now I would just like to get it to move under it's own power. Sooner or later I'll get it to move.

Sooner or later, you will probably want to remove your distributor, but just to get it started, I don't see where it is necessary. If you have a newer distributor and it is 57 or newer, it won't match up with your carb anyway. I would install a new cap, run a wire straight from the battery to the coil to eliminate the possibility of bad wiring. How old is your gas. When I try to start an engine that hasn't run for a long time, I disconnect the line going from the fuel pump to the tank and then put something that will squirt like an oil can or a squeeze bottle like restaurants have ketsup in. I then squirt a little gas in just to see if its going to fire. Make sure you have a fire blanket and a fire extinguisher handy. I have an aluminum go kart fuel tank that I suspend over the carb to run on. But by squirting, you eliminate a stuck needle and seat. If you can get the thing to run for a while and get hot, it may be easier to get the distributor out.

Kenneth

Fredricksburg, Texas

Where are you located? Perhaps one of our members is nearby and could take a look. Chuck in NH

Y's guys rule!
Looking for McCullouch VS57 brackets and parts. Also looking for 28 Chrysler series 72 parts. And early Hemi parts.

MoonShadow, 292 w/McCulloch, 28 Chrysler Roadster, 354 Hemi)
Manchester, New Hampshire