Ron:

I once had a Sears diehard that one of the cells reversed it's polarity.  The guy at sears checing it didn't catch it, but I did.  He got a negavive reading on that one cell, so he reversed his probes and proclaimed it OK.  I called him to task on that, and they replaced the battery.  Anyway, if all the cells got reversed, it would knock out the diodes in the alternator.  Is it possible that the battery got charged backwards at the show?  Or jumper cables hooked up backwards?  Either one would trash the diodes.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Hi John,

Interesting thought.  Im not 100% sure about that one.  If I had to guess, Id say probably not likely, as I tried to keep an eye on them while working on the car.  Im really paranoid about the metal retainer around the top of the battery, so I usually watch pretty closely the few times someone other than me works on the car.  I never saw them hook up anything backwards, but that doesnt mean it didnt happen.

Im thinking through the original failure again, trying to figure out the issue.  I had been hearing the "screeching sound" (very shourt duration) for the last few weeks.  it was usually upon heavy acceleration - if I let off the gas abruptly it would make that sound.   I originally thought it might be one of the bands or a pump in the trans, it was that consistent with letting off gas/upshifting, etc.  However, alternator belt was/is tight, so not a slipping belt.

On the way to the show, I realized there was a bigger problem because occasionally the radio would crackle for a split second and drop out.  At that time I started watching the gages, and they would intermittently go dead for a split second, then come back up whenever I heard the screech sound (IIRC).  It all happened in an instant when it occured, so not sure if the sound came first, then dead needles, or simultaneous, or what?

Over time (about 25 minutes of the drive) it got more into the mode of bleeding down voltage, hear the screech, then volts would jump back to 14.5 for a brief time, then drop to 12 volts (I assume thats when the alternator stopped working) then bleed down voltage to 8-10 (assume thats when it was draining battery).

When tested, the battery only showed capacity of about 140 cca.  Showed 12 volts without load, dropped to about 7-8 volts while trying to crank.

When I had problems on the way there, it was with all circuits.  I.e. under dash gages, stereo, lights, brake lights, turn signals, heater motor, fuel gage, etc.  Thats what makes me think it wasnt a short, as that would have popped one of the inline fuses i have (or circuit breaker under the dash for the convt top circuit), and then id think that only one of the circuits would have been dead?

Im just stumped; the 1 wire alt is so simple, I didnt think even I could screw it up; guess I was wrong!

THANK YOU to all who have offered ideas on this.  I cant tell you how much I appreciate it.  As you guys probably know, its almost impossible to find people who know how to une a carb or really troubleshoot problems vs. just replace parts!  so THANKS!!!!

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

Ron:

One more thought.  Is the main feed wire from the alternator to the battery grounded somewhere?  Do you have an ammeter?  It could have an internal ground also.

John - "The Hoosier Hurricane"

Thanks again for the thought.  At this point Im probably going to order a different alternator (one that I know is correct for 1 wire application - I have a suspicion that the one they provided is actually a 3 wire with the plug ina different spot; will verify tonight) and a new battery, then resume troubleshooting.

Thanks to everyone for the help; Ill post again once I get some parts and go next steps!

Thanks!!

Ron

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

Hey Ron! Any solution been found?

  

I had a similar situation ,where I had a short in the alternator wiring and it fried the diode in the alternator and caused a bad cell in the battery and fried a coil and caused all kinds of confusion.Im still not totally sure on what exactley happened,so I would love to know the verdict on this one.

55 fairlane gasser 312 /c4, 57 f100 292/c4, 52 mainline gasser 302/t10 4speed

Ok, so here is an update.  Got the CORRECT 1 wire alternator from jegs, installed it and tried with another knwon good battery, and its charging again!  So thats the good news.  New battery is on backorder - will be another 1-2 weeks until it ships, so....

However, while the car was running, the starter engaged for a split second.  happened twice.  Im thinking I also need to replace the solenoid.My suspicion is that I messed it up last year when I modified it.  On the + battery post of the solenoid, there was a retaining nut at the base of that stud.  I added a wire for a stereo amp, and to get it to fit, I removed that nut, and just piled the wires on and tightened the end/retaining nut.  I wa never really happy with that, but never got around to coming up with a better fix (still not sure what Ill do?).  My guess is that knocked something loose inside that casued the starter to trigger, especially since I undid that nut and removed the stereo amp & power top wire to rule those out as culprits for other problems.  This is really the first time Ive run the car like that, so my guess is that I knocked something loose or something inside.  Would that make sense?  Hope im explaining it right.

So my guess as to root cause of the charging problem is that I had a shorted cell on the battery.  That *may* have cooked the old alternator.  all subsequent alternators (except the oni I just put in) were the wrong ones - they were 3 wire vs. 1 wire.)  Does this make sense, or am I missing something?

BTW, wiring harness is in good shape/about 8 years old, and the ignition switch was replaced last year.

Thoughts??

THANKS to everyone for the thoughts/help!

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

Sounds like you got it fixed Ron.Good to hear it.I think you need to replace the solenoid.That nut you took off keeps the stud in place.I just had to buy a new battery too.Interstate 29NF(USA made).The dealer that ordered it for me said that the supplier told him they had 5 of these left and when they were gone that was it.Not a real fast mover I wouldnt think up here in Canada. 

  

Yup. I ordered a repro maint free battery with the power punch script on it. Girl on the phone was a real smart a**, but they are the only ones that make them....

Ron Grove

Wauconda, IL

Mark: I called Interstate recently about a battery for my 57 car. Got a recording, put on hold, then transferred twice & never got to talk to anyone, so after over 5 minutes, I hung up. Bought the battery from local supplier that gets most of his stock (unfortunately) from S. Korea.

Paul